My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?
'Pends on what's wrong. Tranny, maybe not so much.
Belt/clutch/flexible coupling/etc., sure...
Only after you learn something about "why" and "what" will you be able
to ascertain much at all about cost.
A bit about washing machines which few know. When the automatic
machine came on the market Maytag was one of the very last. Due to the
fact they experminted with they other brands and got to know their
faults. They in turn designed a machine that did a good job with a
minimum number of parts. The Maytag transmission for operation is as
simple as it can be, has few parts to wear or break. The big secret is
they use a reversible motor for p[ower. I've known of a Maytag which
ran for 29 years before it needed repair, which was a new drive
belt..So before buying a washer , check out the iside workings first
and see how much can go wrong first..
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.
Indeed. I don't think basic electric motors have improved much in
efficiency over the years, and the efficiency of a washing machine
is dictated by the efficiency of its motor because they all work
in pretty much the same way -- add water to clothes, agitate, spin
water out of clothes.
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My front loader has a variable speed drive in it which uses much less
electricity, uses a fraction of the water, washes better, less wear and
tear on clothes, spins more water out. Thus it uses less electricity and
less water and also (btw) it uses a lot less soap. The dryer too is a much
better design which runs more efficiently (less gas and electricity)
My utility company subsidized part of the washer/dryer initial cost
because they recognize the savings
Most front loaders also are less capacity so what efficiency gains there
are per load are lost on number of loads. There seems to be a
considerable debate on users of the "washes better" subject from what
I've read...some maybe, some "not so much".
I find it hard to believe the energy savings overall on washers is big
enough to be more than just barely noticeable if at all...certainly not
enough to justify the expense of a new machine over a relatively
$0.02, etc., ...
On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:17:37 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I disagree. My 13-year-old Whirlpool washer stopped working a couple
of years ago. I immediately started shopping for a new one, hoping
that technology and efficiency had improved. All I found were
insanely-priced machines that did far more than I needed. The machines
that were similar to what I already had were higher in price and lower
in quality. I truly dislike what has happened with washing machines
In the end, I had my old one fixed and it continues to do the good job
that I have grown to expect. My guess is that I will continue to have
this one fixed until the parts are no longer available. I just don't
see any benefit to the consumer from buying new washing machines,
unless you don't have an old one. Even then, I'd buy an old, used
washer and have it fixed before I'd take one of the poor-quality new
I just junked out a 7 yr old Kenmore front loader that
I bought new for $600
The bearing seized up and was NOT replaceable unless
you replace the ENTIRE tub assy
Just plain junk that was not made to last or be
I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the center
of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of solid rubber.
I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has been fried.
However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have ( 110.92595500 )
and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of belt, in the parts
Does anyone have a clue what that pile of rubber might be?
Most rather than a conventional belt use a flexible coupling that looks
like a piece of rubber radiator hose with slits lengthwise around it on
the middle section and the two ends solid. It goes on one end of the
drive and the transmission drive and is the shock absorber as well as
the drive for the reversing action of the agitation. More than likely
that's what's worn out and it finally broke. It's relatively easy fix...