how do I remove a B16 tapered chuck from its mandrel?

replying to Dave Liquorice, Roy B wrote: For excellent removal of stuck parts, try a product called AeroKroil (The Oil That Creeps), Orange Cans, Made by Kano Industries, KanoLaboratories.com Its pricey but goes a long way and is an excellent stuck-parts loosener. Close/almost the same is Kroil, and SiliKroil. Let it soak. I am in the same situation of trying to remove a B16 Taper chuck from mp drill press. I'm going to try steadying the top of the press and give the chuck a sharp tap with a steep hammer. Use 2 hammers (one on each side) and tap sharply down at the same time if possible. I'll try what I just advised. -Roy B.

replying to Duncan DiSaudelli, Roy B wrote: See below for comments left by Roy B on 16Apr19.... THEN: Yesterday I did what I suggested. To make sure we are all on the same page wrt the terms and parts, go to HarborFreight.com (which I'll now refer to as HFT), search with Drill Press, and choose the 10" 12 speed one. Scroll down and find a tab where it says User Manual and select to download it. Here it then shows up as "User Manual & Safety Instructions". This KEY everyone is referring to is listed as # 34 on that diagram. On others it may be listed as a WEDGE KEY, or a DRIFT KEY. (The way HFT lists and names components may be different from common practice.) Basically this KEY is a slightly hardened piece of metal a few inches long, about 1/8" thick, slanted to a point on one of the long ends. On my drill press, there is a slot in the Spindle Sleeve to wedge the Key in but there is no way to line it up and GET the Key in there. Somewhere , there MAY BE clearance to put the KEY between the chuck and the spindle. There may be only a lip on the outer edge at the bottom of the Spindle. Hold the KEY sideways on top of the Chuck and below the Spindle. Give it a quick significant rap with a hammer. If you CANNOT find a lip above the chuck and, bottom of the Spindle, soak the connections between Chuck, Arbor, and Spindle with Aero Kroil or another penetrating fluid. Then hit down the Chuck down with a hammer. OR use two hammers, one on each side of the Chuck, and knock the Chuck down, making sure the hammers hit simultaneously on the Chuck. THIS may also remove the Arbor along with the Chuck, at which point you will have to clamp the Arbor sideways in a vise and knock off the Chuck with a hammer or two.To make sure everything goes back together properly, AND FOR THOSE where the Arbor/Arbor & Chuck keeps falling out, clean EVERYTHING thoroughly with something like brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Use proper safety precautions...IE don't smoke or expose these chemicals to a fire source. Use a wire brush on the exposed ends of the Arbor. To get down into the chuck, use a toothbrush. In other words, when the stuff goes back together, all contact surfaces must be CLEAN. NO dirt or oil. Possibly use 600 grit sandpaper LIGHTLY on the exposed surfaces. Re-clean everything. Assemble the parts together by hand and place the Chuck / Chuck & Arbor up into the Spindle. It should stay. Open the Chuck so the teeth retract and there is a smooth surface upon which to hit (don't hit the Chuck gripping teeth... They WILL break off) Then, PRESSING DOWN the top of the press, knock the Chuck up SHARPLY with a hammer. Then also secure a piece of wood below the Chuck and bring the Chuck down with the drill press Feed Handle. Use modest force on the drill press Feed Handles... Don't break a handle off. On many small to medium size drill presses, there is play and slack EVERYWHERE... Everything must be rigidly secured. I HOPE THIS HELPS. This is the first ever comment I have made on a blog like this. Very Respectfully Submitted, Roy B. (yeah, yeah.. ha ha on my screen name. It was the only one my wife had left and we have stuck with AOL).

Hi Roy,

Just on the off chance you manage to see this (for whatever reason it seems very rare to get any form of response via the web site you are on), you may find this helpful: