Wondered if anyone could help me. I'm having a new washing machine delivered on Sunday as my old one has finally died on me. However, although they're removing the old one and installing the new one, they say that they're not insured to disconnect it for me, and it must be disconnected before they get there?!
I haven't a clue. Could anyone please, please list what I need to do to disconnect a washing machine. I know that I have to turn the water off and unplug it, but that's about it.
Thanks for that, but one of my friends said something today about having to disconnect cold and hot water valves and having to use a special tool to "cap off" these valves, and it was best to call out a plumber. Is that right? If all I have to do is unplug it then I feel a bit silly for coming on here, but I'll also be pleased if that's the case.
|>Wondered if anyone could help me. I'm having a new washing machine |>delivered on Sunday as my old one has finally died on me. However, |>although they're removing the old one and installing the new one, they |>say that they're not insured to disconnect it for me, and it must be |>disconnected before they get there?! |>
|>I haven't a clue. Could anyone please, please list what I need to do |>to disconnect a washing machine. I know that I have to turn the water |>off and unplug it, but that's about it. |>
|>Any help would be much appreciated. |>
|>Thank very much. | |It'll have a normal 3 pin plug unplug
Plus perhaps hot water in and cold water in. Turn off the taps near the end of the flexible pipes and remove the flexible pipes which are hand tightenable. Plus perhaps water outlet pipe which you just take out of the waste pipe
It is also a good idea to make sure that all water is drained out of the machine. before you disconnect it. Your instruction book should tell you how and if you don't have one you may be able to find the instruction book for your machine online at the manufacturer's website.
Most washing machines have an amount of water in them that isn't emptied away at the end of the wash although you can't see it. It can make the machine very heavy to move - particularly if the machine is faulty and has not been emptying properly - and may spill out .
Just to say that my machine is very old - I bought it 16 years ago by a company called Thorn, and I don't think they're around anymore. But thanks very much to everyone who replied. Hopefully, I should be able to sort it out.
The H&C valves have taps on them to cut the water off for disconnection, however its the waste pipe to the sink? you have to worry about, some connections dont have a cut off valve on the sink pipe.
Sorry if I was a bit brief, for some reason I read it as if you were OK with the water side of things.
Usually there are one or two, depending if it has cold and hot feeds, little taps that you can turn off before unscrewing the hoses.
Although they are intended to be hand tightened, almost certainly you with need a small pipe wrench to get them off.
If there are no taps as was the case with my neighbours, then indeed you will have to turn the water off, both hot and cold if they are both present and then block the feeds in some way before turning it back on again. I think if there are no taps, you are looking for a co-operative neighbour perhaps. ;-)
at the ends of the flexible pipes. Turn the red and blue (hot / cold) levers through 90 degrees and then unscrew the large plastic nuts. Watch out for a bit of spillage.
Only if they know your abilities (or lack of) very well. I wouldn't cap the ends if a new machine is going straight in but would do something for a longer term disconnection. The valves are easy to knock open and can deposit a lot of water rather quickly...
Otherwise just take things slowly and carefully. Start with the power,
13A plug, simple switch off the socket and unplug. Next water supplies, probably two, in flexable hoses. One red (hot) and one blue (cold). Where these attach to the building pipework you will find a valve. Turn each one off, just a 1/4 turn normally, the "handle" should end up cross ways to the pipe. Next get a bucket, put it under where the hose join the valves and try to undo the approx 1" dia coupling at the hose side of the valve. If they have been done up for a while they might be very stiff and need a large pair of pliers to get them moving. As the hose is slightly flexable the water in the hose will be still be under a little pressure so expect some water to escape once the coupling is loose. Uncouple the hose and bung the end in the bucket, remember it is full of water. 4' of hose holds about a pint, quite a mess in a puddle on the floor... Repeat for the other hose. Waste probably just lifts out of a stand pipe but may be plumbed into a trap. Again be aware that the waste pipe and low parts of the machine will still have water in them, that bucket again for the end.
The hard bits will probably be moving the machine, washing machines are very heavy and getting half decent access to the connections.
Good news, you don't need special tools - only fingers and the right cap.
If you do need to blank the ends off, pop into a plumbers' shop (proper one not B&Q [2], and ask - the bloke should be able to sell you a couple of screw caps with rubber washers for a few quid if you explain exactly what it's for.
The thread used on a washing machine tap is imperial, and it happens to be the same thread used in some parts of central heating systems - so brass caps are no problem to find. I used 3 black rubber washers in each (cap bit too deep for tap) and screw on tight by hand (don't need spanners, rubber will seal OK) - hey presto, no accidents.
I did that, due to a week between old machine being kicked out and new one arriving as I have a 2 year old who likes bright coloured twiddly things!
Actually, your new machine is probably going to a cold-fill only (most are these days) so you would be advised to cap off the hot tap anyway for peace of mind (which I did).
I find the easiest way here is: open the door, then grab the inside of the portal (not the drum or the door, try to feel for something solid through the rubber) and try and wiggle the machine side to side a little while pulling forward. Unless it's a Miele[1], it should be possible to "walk" it out, an inch at a time, one side, then the other, etc. Hard floor helps here - carpet will be much harder.
Stop if you feel it going tight - pipes/flex may be caught up - hopefully you'll be able to at least get your hand round the back by now and sort them out.
Hope that helps
Tim
[1] They be full of cast iron weights and are notoriously heavy.
[2] I asked the "plumbing specialist" in B&Q. He got all confused. Having a suspicion of where I'd find the bits, I rummaged around for 10 mins until I found what I wanted.
Consider tilting the machine and sliding some hardboard under the feet. It will act as a skid and make it easier to drag the machine across the floor. The old machine will have rubber pads on the feet that can leave marks on your floor. The hardboard will also reduce the friction.
(I use the same technique to move my rather heavy TV across the carpet if I need to get around the back)
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