Out of interest, it's not in my basic English dictionary either dated 1994.
Out of interest, it's not in my basic English dictionary either dated 1994.
My purpose made garage door open/close push button switch failed recently, after much searching for a like for like replacement with no success whatsover, i replaced it with a standard bell press which i had in my spares box, it works fine for opening and closing the garage door.
Why not just look inside the existing switch.
Thing with most bell pushes is they are designed for low voltage only. The sort described here are safe at mains voltage.
There are two cables from the control box, one to each of the current architrave switches
And there are different type of controls for different garage door openers.
My parents have a push to make 12V switch on their garage door.
Press once and the door opens. Press again whilst the door is opening and the door stops, Press it again an the door starts to close, One button does it all.
That info is about as much use a a condom machine in the Vatican.
What do the cables connect to inside the switch (although I already know the answer)?
My up & over door does that, too. I had to replace the switch earlier in the year - it didn't really like the damp air in the garage.
Please don't tell me that yours also has a lamp that comes one when you open the door and the lamp fails frequently because of the vibration of the door opener:-)
Well before LEDs or CFLs were available (which should stop that happening) I used the output of the lamp to operate a contactor and switch on the garage fluorescent lights.
I think we're at crossed porpoises! The switches are SPNO; what I don't know is whether the two separate control systems can have one side of their inputs joined, which is what I would have to do to use a SPDT(centre off) biased switch. If the connection simply pulls an input to ground then clearly I can use an SPDT switch, but in the (admittedly) unlikely case that the switching is not ground-referenced then I can't connect them and would need a DPDT switch. That's why I said I needed to investigate the control circuitry.
Same as mine - are you my long lost son ;-)
Maybe. But I now understand what you have:-)
The switches are SPNO; what I don't
And if they are separate control cables you are back to my first suggestion of One CMA402 and two MD004WH. Or everyone else's grid switch suggestion (same difference just the Scolmore stuff looks like a normal switch)
Are the Scolmore grid modules actually Euromodule sized, or proprietary?
screwfix 21849
The same sort of English that gave us Plug Tops.
Not sure if Plug Tops fit in the Woodpecker's Hole ;-)
Owain
Or indeed "plug sockets", which seem to be just sockets.
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