Halstead Warm Air Boiler

[Peter]

The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on 24/7 and I know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that time I need advice re. the following.

I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and position it close to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop the damn thing blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools boiler's thermostat etc)

However, said heating element must not be a fire hazard, and need/should not heat to more than say 100F

Would a transformer 240v to ? (adjustable transformer?) do the trick? What I mean is, is it a transformer that would be used to reduce a red hot element down to lower temperatures?

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Peter

[Jerry]

24/7 and I : know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that time I need : advice re. the following. : : I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and position it close : to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop the damn thing : blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools boiler's : thermostat etc)

Why can't one place the (suitably rated) time-switch in the boilers electrical supply feed if all you want to do is simply switch the boiler on or off?

[Peter]

Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)

Peter

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[Jerry]

: : Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not) :

So how is it controlled then, via a battery and circuit or mechanical?

[Peter]

Totally mechanical. Only control is the normal zero to 6 knob pilot starter.

so either I find a timed mechanical way to turn that knob or i kid the thermo. Please dont misunderstand I'd rather not have to turn down a red hot element, anything (small) that heats to I'm guessing 100f . for argument's sake the tiniest electric blanket, I jest but hope u get the idea.

Peter

[Peter]

Answered my own question. Gonna try using a heat pad.

[John Stumbles]

Low voltage halogen lamp (20W or so) pointed at it?

[Peter]

Brilliant. Thanks so much

Peter

[Ericp]

Brilliant indeed. I lived happily with one of those for 28 years and laughed at powercuts in winter.

Never thought to see a solution to the on/off problem.

[Peter]

The monthly DD is so high I'm loathe to confess. This may at least cut it by a quarter.

Peter

[Andrew Gabriel]

Years ago, I had a Drugasar gas wall heater with proportional thermostatic control. I taped a few resistors onto the thermostat phile, and drove them from a low power wall wart PSU from Maplin with a switched output voltage. You need to do some experimenting to calibrate the effect of the resistors. What you will find is that you get a fixed amount of temperature setback per watt. So if you normally set the thermostat for, say, 20C room temperature, then you might find each 0.1W gives you 2C setback. Then work out what setback you want at night (you probably never want completely off), and choose resistor values to give you this with the wall-wart set to about 2/3rds max output voltage. If you want to adjust this afterwards, you can adjust the wall wart voltage up or down a notch. To use with a timeswitch, remember that the on/off settings will be reversed. Also, it will come on if there's a power cut, so never rely on this technique to keep the heater off in any circumstance where it would be unsafe if it came on unexpectedly.

Obviously, I've left out much detail, and the issue of modifying a gas appliance, which is not without risks, and I have no idea if you are competent to do it safely.

[Ericp]

The hot air was not so bad, it was the water heater strapped to it that burnt the gas like it was going out of fashion.

[Peter]

If I understand you correctly, I should make plain that the boiler thermostat measures the temperature at the air intake (in the kitchen) and can be roughly calibrated by turning the ignition knob from 0 through 6. This therefor doesnt measure temps in any other room, but good draught proofing, particularly in the kitchen, seems to allow for reasonable consistancy. So, for the moment, all I wish to achieve, is a simple on/off as we dont need all night heating.

Peter

[Andy Burns]

I'm not at all familiar with this type of heater, so this thing "uncontrollably" pumps hot air all over the house whenever it's chilly in your kitchen?

Yes, it sounds like fooling it into thinking the kitchen isn't chilly is the cheapest answer to your immediate question, but if it's that profligate it'd justify spending hundreds to fix it in a better way, has the calibration of the "input" knob been better in the past?

[Peter]

Yes

Erm.. Just moved in with MIL who thinks that £200 pm is reasonable. She sets control knob to 4 and has always been happy with that. Since I obviously disagree (and am taking over all bills) I wish only to do what normal people do and switch it off at night.I might add that the control is set to zero during the summer months (statement of the bleeding obvious) but the £200 is the normal 12 month DD. Only other gas is a cooker. As soon as money allows a combi system will be installed.

Peter

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[Jerry]

: As soon as money allows a combi system will be installed. :

I wouldn't dismiss keeping warm air heating, whilst a new combined air-heater/hot-water 'boiler' might be more expencive than a suitable combi there will/should be considerable savings on instillation costs to off set. Also if the house was originally planed for warm air it is some times not always easy to find suitable locations for radiators, especially if you are unfortunate in having full height windows.

[Andy Burns]

Ah so if you turn it down, does it go off at overnight kitchen temperatures? I thought you meant even on its lowest setting (other than 0) it kept on blasting out hot air ...

[Peter]

Yes control knob works, but I dont much like the idea of setting the alarm 1 hour early to play knob games. (sorry couldnt help it)

Peter

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[Jerry]

How about attempting to help the OP Mr Wadsworth...

[Fredxx]

Put the alarm on the wife's side. I'm sure she would be more obliging?