Ground Source Heating

If doing a lot of work to the property and garden, I'd consider laying the loops in the garden and UFH loops in the house to make it easier to install in future if you want.

How about a coal stove(s) with back boiler? Also air source heat pump/air conditioners which will work well in all but the coldest weather.

Last time I looked, electric heat was 2x the cost of coal using Phurnacite, which was in turn 2x the cost of natural gas or air source heat pumps.

So in a rural location with no natural gas I'd consider air source heat pumps, with coal stoves for the coldest weather and as backup.

Once the weather gets to the the point where the heat pumps are operating at 50% efficiency then it makes sense to use coal instead.

If getting a few air source heat pumps then don't go for cheapo ones, an air con supplier should give a good deal on some decent ones.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C
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I'd go with the man with the tractor. Even if he charges a few pence more than his rivals, it'll still be much cheaper than the alternatives, both in capital and running costs. You'll need lots of insulation and a big tank, so that you can reliably get through the non-accessible period of the year.

Alternatively, see if someone will deliver at the roadside in barrels, which you can ferry up and down the drive in the back of a Land Rover pickup at your leisure.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

In article , Rick writes

If you can get a vehicle to your house (or even if you can't) you can use oil, its just a case of using a transport system that works for you I've collected heating oil in 25L, 200L and 1000L containers and carted in vans, estates and trailers, you could even set up a holding tank in a more accessible place if you want tanker delivery and then cart it at your leisure.

Reply to
David

A pipe 1/3 of a mile long is not that difficult or expensive to do. It doesn't have to be underground. One tank at the gate and another at the house and a pump to pull it through. Even if it is a 15mm pipe, the pump can work all night pumping from one tank to the other, ensuring it is full up.

I would consider:

- A full souhthish facing solar roof.

- Very low temp UFH feeding a large thermal store.

- Electric backup.

- "very" high insulation levels, borsering on superinsulation.

- make the hosue air tight.

Should be very cheap to run as well.

Reply to
Doctor Evil

I think the 4 wheel bowser I tow for refueling the bigger machines is

2000ltr, you need a 4wd to tow it but in principle I see no reason why it should not be the oil central heating tank, it's fully bunded. Mind it may be best to remove the wheels during static duty.

AJH

Reply to
sylva

I could buy the feild (10K or so), get a turntable to take a 7.5 tonne truck, and then I'd still have to widen and straighten the track 30K+

Sort of moves the scales of econnomy away from gas :-)

Reply to
Rick

I don't have one of these :-(

I'm at 0.2 U value

I hope to get it neer to air tight

I have sort of backed away a bit, I am thinking of getting it air tight, and then seeing how much heat I need to keep it wharm. This will give me a rough idea of how much heating to add.

I have looked at big log boliers that need to go in before the walls are finished, lovley idea, but again a huge capital cost, and possibly not pratical when I am too old to work a chainsaw.

Reply to
Rick

I think I could make that Idea work, and oil tank on wheels - obvious really - but I didn't think of it, then I get the farmer to tractor it upto the road for filling :-)

Thanks Rick

Reply to
Rick

Have you looked at any dual fuel type boilers? I hear that some are very good now'a'days, but I've never actually heard of anyone using them much, in the UK anyway. They are very popular on other parts of the globe though.

Reply to
BigWallop

Baxi do One, I have found a UK supplier, but not got a price yet. If I can fit it so I can feed it from outside the house, then I'll be very pleased. Assuming I can afford it.

I did find a different company that did them, starting price was 35K, more than half my total build budget.

Rick

Reply to
Rick

bad news for health.

huge capital cost? They dont cost much if you build them in situ. Just a big brick chamber, big enough to take 4' logs, so no need to chop them, with a cast iron top to let the heat escape, and cook on, and a chimney, either brick or steel tube. Insulated loading door plus controllable air intake. Iron bars across the base would help too.

And you can burn various in them, wood, straw, sorted garbage, dried garden junk, and with sufficient care even coal. (coal burns too hot for bricks, so youd have to use a smaller basket to keep the coal away from the brick.) Most efficient burning occurs when you allow full air flow, burn fast, die down, burn fast, die down, etc.

(And, if youre frugal to the point of insane, you can even burn turds as well! Just put the loo far enough from the thing so you dont cook yourself.)

Re solar, if your whole house is shaded, can you put a big solar collector up where its not shaded? Use a frame and film to reflcet and concentrate the light, to reduce collector cost and improve its effiency.

Note the solar app of choice is hot air, not water.

Reduce energy need by fitting a wastewater heat exchanger, they pay very well.

Re wood burners, you do have to have heat when youre ill too, so you shuold be able to survive without using it for limited times. No chainsaw is needed, if youre not upto it, just order a truck load of wood. And wood can often be got free as offcuts, if you dont care what it looks like. Lots gets landfilled.

Oh, passive heating can reduce your bills too, though its only useful in the milder parts of the year.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

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