Good strong glue

wont adhere to many plastics either...:-(

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
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Wrong.

Been using Araldite for many years with no problems. As usual you are talking bollocks

Reply to
Mr Pounder Esquire

Been using it and other epoxies since around 1963, with many many problems.

Nope. I'm talking truth.

It's great to fix china, if you use heat to set it.

Its not bad to fix metal to metal, given heat, but usually car body filler does a better job for an amateur.

Its quite useful for brickwork or rebder applications too. It sticks to stone.

Its almost useless as a wood glue, especially on more porous wood, because it doesn't penetrate. It always simply tears the surface off the wood off. PVA is in fact better overall. And way cheaper.

It's best mixed on polythene sheet, because it doesn't stick to polythene and can be peeled off when set.

IN every case solvent weld or 'plastic cement' is better on plastic, and solvent based contact (rubber solution, evostik) are more reliable on non gap filling plastic to plastic joints.

IN order to fully set epoxy it must be mixed in an exact ratio, Generally 50:50 for 'hobby' formulations. Failure to do this results in a rubbery matrix of unset epoxy. Additionally poor mixing will result in the same effect. Heating it helps it to mix better and also makes it set far faster and far harder, and less liable to fail under heat subsequently. E.g. repaired china put through a dishwasher.

This is all knowledge gained by reading up about it and using it exhaustively for over 50 years.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

They require reasonably accurate measuring which is not difficult to do. As for heat, this is a switch in a car, he is not gluing the wings on a jumbo jet.

Been using Araldite for many years with no problems.

Oh dear.

It's a Switch in a car!

No need for heat, just time to let it cure.

You would use kipper to fix a switch in a car? Oh, you are baiting me.

Dunno.

I've used it on wood with no problems.

I've always used a bit of cardboard.

He wants to glue a switch to his dashboard, that is all he wants to do.

I first used it 40 years ago. It has never failed me.

Reply to
Mr Pounder Esquire

around 1963, a colleague rebuillt the teeth on his A35 gearbox using Araldite!

Reply to
charles

"Wot's a joist?" (Peter Hucker)

Reply to
Mr Pounder Esquire

You're a pedant who distinguishes between beams and joists. They're all 2x4.

Reply to
James Wilkinson

Thankfully, they are not in the house I am sitting in.

The joists are far larger than that!

Reply to
polygonum

My floor is supported by 2x4 inch joists space 16 inches apart. The floor does not collapse or bounce. The ceiling (and loft) is the same.

Reply to
James Wilkinson

3M VHB tape, its what holds a lot of signs together

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Reply to
Adam Aglionby

I rather like Evostick Serious - although it's not cheap. And does need the two bits secured for about 24 hours for the best results. But does stick most common materials together, and seems pretty ok with heat and so on.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I thought I had replied to this a couple of days ago, but it fell through the cracks somewhere.

I bought Professional Glue from Hafixs a while ago, and it's quite amazing. Sticks almost anything to almost anything, and helps me uphold my reputation for "Grandpa fix it". I believe it's basically a cyanoacrylate with additives. Slightly more viscous than the "ordinary" stuff.

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Peter

Reply to
Ramsman

superglue is pretty amazing: only the olefins and a few vinyls fail to stick, but it does have a few disadvantages.

A proper D-I-Y-er has a range of adhesives and fillers at his disposal and tries all of them out.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

No, it's there. You replied at 18.19 on the 14th according to what I can see. Strangely enough, my post to thank you hasn't shown!

Reply to
John

John brought next idea :

Just to put this one to bed, I went with Evostik Impact contact adhesive and it did the job brilliantly, but thanks for all contributions and suggestions ^^

Reply to
John

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