My neighbor is trying to remove a sending unit on his engine block that was
installed with loctite. He said the sending unite feel like it would break
off before the it would back it out of its thread. What trick the mechanics
use to remove bolts that's installed with loctite?
Hi, Don't know how well a torch would work on something like this, as
many of these Sensors-Sending Units have plastic on them.
(Although what will be going into the engine-manifold should be some
sort of metal)
A milder, less drastic method, might be the use of a soldering iron to
heat the area.
I've found that many times, using a mild-medium strength threadlocker,
like Loctite #242 on small machine screws in effect is virtually
permanent. This is where a Soldering Iron applied to the screw head can
work wonders, and it might help here?
The other thing is, is that sometimes, there are special made sockets
for removing sending units-sensors, and might be in this particular
Hope this helps, Mark
Sure, that's why I indicated that if the goal is to preserve it, then
try something more benign like a heat gun.
But, if it is already failed and it prevents proper repair by being
stuck, then use the torch.
I assumed that the stuck part it was metal to metal - or else the
loctite wouldn't be a problem to begin with.
Mark D'Ambrosio wrote:
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be
removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break
down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun
or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful
disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled,
use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material.
Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film
that Chisel leaves on the surface.
Never heard of Chisel. Google is your friend. Would need an accurate
description of the item to suggest what to use when putting in the new part.
Shouldn't use loctite, teflon tape or other anti-sieze, anyway.
Best method is a six-point socket and a heavy ratchet or breaker bar.
Don't pull on the handle though, smack the end of it with the biggest
hammer you can find. The shock should break it loose. If you can't
get a socket to fit over the sensor, break all of the plastic stuff off
with a chisel/screwdriver leaving only the brass.
Bringing the engine up to operating temperature may help, theoretically
the sensor will cool faster and 'shrink' slightly. If you do it this
way don't take the sensor out all of the way until the pressure in the
cooling sytem is relieved or you will have a miniature old faithfull
shooting out boiling water/coolant.
If you try the torch/iron/heat gun method you want to try and heat the
area around the sensor not the sensor itself.
I would skip all the heating stuff and just go for the first method.
If there is *no* possible way to get a socket on it pipe wrench should
tear it right out.
I've not run into this problem myself, but I've been told in the past:
1. A sharp tap with a hammer might lossen stuck lock-tite.
2. Heating, might help reliquidfy it.
3. Pentrating oil can help.
Like I said, just passing information I've been told over time.
tom @ www.NoCostAds.com
:My neighbor is trying to remove a sending unit on his engine block that was
:installed with loctite. He said the sending unite feel like it would break
:off before the it would back it out of its thread. What trick the mechanics
:use to remove bolts that's installed with loctite?
I'm somebody said this, but there are different grades of loctite, and
obviously you don't use the tightest grade if there's ANY chance you
will want/need to remove the part some time in the future. When I bought
some, I got the medium grade for this reason.
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