My neighbor is trying to remove a sending unit on his engine block that was installed with loctite. He said the sending unite feel like it would break off before the it would back it out of its thread. What trick the mechanics use to remove bolts that's installed with loctite?
Why would you loctite a sensor? You use anti-sieze on sensors
Hmmm, Try when engine is hot.
Hi, Don't know how well a torch would work on something like this, as many of these Sensors-Sending Units have plastic on them. (Although what will be going into the engine-manifold should be some sort of metal)
A milder, less drastic method, might be the use of a soldering iron to heat the area.
I've found that many times, using a mild-medium strength threadlocker, like Loctite #242 on small machine screws in effect is virtually permanent. This is where a Soldering Iron applied to the screw head can work wonders, and it might help here?
The other thing is, is that sometimes, there are special made sockets for removing sending units-sensors, and might be in this particular case?
Hope this helps, Mark
Sure, that's why I indicated that if the goal is to preserve it, then try something more benign like a heat gun.
But, if it is already failed and it prevents proper repair by being stuck, then use the torch.
I assumed that the stuck part it was metal to metal - or else the loctite wouldn't be a problem to begin with.
Mark D'Ambrosio wrote:
Heat. Loctite will come loose if you heat it up with a torch.
Thought you were supposed to put sensors in with thread sealant like Rectorseal and teflon tape. Or copper based Never Sieze.
Shouldn't use loctite, teflon tape or other anti-sieze, anyway.
Best method is a six-point socket and a heavy ratchet or breaker bar. Don't pull on the handle though, smack the end of it with the biggest hammer you can find. The shock should break it loose. If you can't get a socket to fit over the sensor, break all of the plastic stuff off with a chisel/screwdriver leaving only the brass.
Bringing the engine up to operating temperature may help, theoretically the sensor will cool faster and 'shrink' slightly. If you do it this way don't take the sensor out all of the way until the pressure in the cooling sytem is relieved or you will have a miniature old faithfull shooting out boiling water/coolant.
If you try the torch/iron/heat gun method you want to try and heat the area around the sensor not the sensor itself.
I would skip all the heating stuff and just go for the first method. If there is *no* possible way to get a socket on it pipe wrench should tear it right out.
I used 'removable' thread locker on my CTS. It was recommended.
later,
tom @
I've not run into this problem myself, but I've been told in the past:
Like I said, just passing information I've been told over time.
later,
tom @
From
Never heard of Chisel. Google is your friend. Would need an accurate description of the item to suggest what to use when putting in the new part.
Previous mechanic installed new sensing unit, few years ago according to neighbor, used loctite.
Loctite comes in at least 3 grades. One being considered permanent. Not something that should be used on anything that's ever supposed to come apart again.
I had a similar problem, I guess it could have had Loctite on it. After I broke it off I used an EZ out, a big pull handle and a torch.
:My neighbor is trying to remove a sending unit on his engine block that was :installed with loctite. He said the sending unite feel like it would break :off before the it would back it out of its thread. What trick the mechanics :use to remove bolts that's installed with loctite? : I'm somebody said this, but there are different grades of loctite, and obviously you don't use the tightest grade if there's ANY chance you will want/need to remove the part some time in the future. When I bought some, I got the medium grade for this reason.
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