The ones at CPC are much more expensive than I remember. I'm wondering is they are mis-priced!
FYI, I wear them with glasses. That's the advantage of them.
The ones at CPC are much more expensive than I remember. I'm wondering is they are mis-priced!
FYI, I wear them with glasses. That's the advantage of them.
<snip>
Well I've seen that model advertised elsewhere for similar and more so maybe not.
Thanks, yes, I could see how that would be, along with being able to flip up the lens, but still have the light on the job, in contrast with those where the whole visor flips up.
Do you find that the RW magnification is what you would expect from the sum of your glasses and the visor lens? I didn't know if any additional distance between your glasses and the visor lens might impact the overall view?
Cheers, T i m
p.s. The components for the Hantek 6022 PC based oscilloscope 'upgrade / hack' (adding a soft driven AC (decoupling) option) are arriving and there is no way I could or would want to apply such without a 'very good' view of it all, especially with resistors only 3mm long!
Seems fine to me. I don't have full field of visioon anyway, but glasses with metal rims and these rimless lenses on the visor work well. As for actual magnification - as with Rolls Royce power, it's 'adequate'!
You might need more, but I normally use lens #2 or lens #3. rarely use #4, and I could always combine two.
Not sure I wouldn't want the microscope for that.
(I have a standalone scope with full software control from the PC via NISA)
Interesting, thanks. Optics was one of my favourite parts of physics, but I've forgotten most of it.
If you watch the repair shop on BBC1, Steve Fletcher, the horologist, uses a pair of additional flip down magnifying lenses for close work. Lots on Ebay & Amazon. Different magnifications & cheap enough to experiment with.
Yes, I've seen the show and seen him using 'something' but not sure if what he does is what I 'mainly' need such for?
eg. He generally sits and stays at a bench for reasonably long periods and works on very fine things (watch / clock parts).
For me it's *also* the need to be able to walk about (within my workshop or workshop to house and back) whilst either still wearing said magnification (as I have done with my x4 glasses) or be able to flip them out of the way (rather than take them off, put them down and risk damaging them (in the workshop especially)) but leaving my std glasses in place (as Steve does but possibly with a different use / move ratio). eg, He would probably sit there for some time taking a clock to bits, before moving it all over to a cleaning tank, then polishing, then back to the bench for some time for re-assembly. [1]
I would be working in the workshop (just using my readers) but then need to do something for 5 mins that requires a more detailed view but in between those moments, want to beck to a more general view with the readers. In the past I have used a magnifying glass or sheet for those close-up view (checking how well my cleaning is going etc) but that means I can't use both hands to hold stuff and hold stuff out of the way or clean further.
Now, I might also need to sit at a bench and do really fine work (surface mount components etc) and so ideally, and if I was spending reasonable money on something, whatever I got would deal with that as well. Or such a single solution may not be viable in which case I'd have to get a couple of 'different' ones.
But rather than ending up with a draw full of failed experiments, I thought it might be more efficient to ask the panel and therefore potentially narrow it down a bit (and I have, thanks). ;-)
It was *after* being swamped by solutions on the likes of eBay and Amazon that I asked here. ;-)
Cheers., T i m
[1] When I was just starting work at as trainee technician my mate was an apprentice watchmaker and he was the one who told me the watchmakers and jewellers often sat really low with their faces just above the line of the bench. ;-)
I'm interested in these. I have +3.5 and +4 - I got the 4s about 15 years ag then later wanted another pair and couldn't find >3.5. Now, a lot on Ebay etc. say "3.5" as the top value, so of no use really, but is that the value of the strongest lens and can the lenses be stacked to go higher? None of them seem to say and the stronger ones are all spectacle type. I'd prefer headband for that much overhang.
Yeah, I found similar when shopping but have just received a replacement pair of x4's (straight glasses) and they seem better than what they replaced. They will need a bit of massaging with a file a heat gun to get them to fit comfortably but writing on a cap that was not discernable with my daily readers suddenly became crisp and clear again. ;-)
I think so yes (I'll be able to confirm that when mine arrive).
With some it seems you have a selection of lenses that you can attach and another lens that is fixed inside you can flip down to give you a boost, taking it up to x6 or so?
Agreed, you sometimes have to get lucky and look at all the pictures, rather than in the description.
Agreed and what I went for (as recommenced by a couple of respondents here).
Cheers, T i m
;-)
Noted.
So in the dial configuration, does one flip up and the other under?
You may be right but I try to reserve mine for the *very* small jobs.
Like, I was 'chilling' in my mates PC shop when a customer came with her daughter who was obviously very upset as she had kicked the USB stick off the front of their PC and smashed it, ripping the USB plug off the board and took some of the tracks with it.
He asked them to leave is with us then handed it to me to see if I could do anything! ;-)
I was able to tack a short USB lead and plug to it and run it sufficiently to back everything off onto another stick. His eyes / skills weren't good enough so he wouldn't have taken it on himself. I did use the microscope for that one. ;-)
Very nice. This was just ones of those USB cameras with a built in LED lamp on a simple base with a knob to control the height.
It does take some setting up (physically), getting the object in the right place and getting in with the iron (that now looks like a scaffold pole) and solder without it all getting in the way ... and then it moves ... ;-(
Cheers, T i m
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