Gate hinge spike hole size

As subject, I have to mount a 19mm (3/4") square spike for a bottom gate hinge in a softwood post. What size hole do I want? 19mm, 20mm, 21mm or 7/8"? I want to use the largest practical size as it is a bit near the edge of the post and I don't want to split it.

Many thanks for advice.

Reply to
Roger Hayter
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One of these ?

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The spike is rather long. I've only got one drill bit for the job, which is an "aircraft bit", maybe 3/16" in diameter. And close to a foot long. At least that could be used to drill four pilot holes to define the corners.

The 13mm for the center, I'd use a 12.5mm bit, but it's only about half the length of that spike, and now I'm screwed. How much smaller than 12.5mm to go, depends on the type of wood. Some woods being more obliging before splitting than others. I drill a lot of pilots to avoid splitting stuff myself.

And the only size aircraft bit available, I bought one. They don't make the other bit sizes that long.

Why, I would have to drive to the machine shop, which stocks weird tool-age. I can go to that place and get a #2 tap, whereas any other store here "we'll order it for you". That's the kind of place you go for the more exotic bits. The aircraft bit was in a regular hardware store, and I bought it as soon as seeing it. A collectors item.

If your spike is rounded, then it's one of those judgment calls. Pretty easy really. Take a piece of wood from your junk pile, of the right dimensions for a simulation. Drill the intended hole Start to drive the spike, just a little bit. Does the wood compress well ? Is the driving force astronomical ? Back off, drill bigger hole, try again. That's how judgment works :-) The wood will tell you. I would not be testing the actual gatepost that way, for fear of buggering the job. As a timid DIYer, that's how I get good results. Measure twice cut once, cut again and again. Apply paint to cover damage. Apologize for mess made.

*******

Or for comedic effect.

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"Mortiser Drill Bit Set"

"Various existing bits, can only process a circular hole, square hole can not be processed, to machining square hole, must drill the hole or cutting machine processed crude hole, then chisel made from artificial hand. The utility model in the hole drilled by the rotary body, while the impact of the use of hammer impact force transmitted to the outer body, the material crushing round hole and square head wall, a one-time processing of a square hole, and the dust can be broken slag discharged from the tube. Using different specifications of the square hole drill, matching the appropriate power of the square hole machine, you can play a square hole to meet the requirement."

You could play the square hole, to put it in best Chinese English.

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How big is this post ? Big enough for an 8" spike that is not sunk quite fully into the post ? To get a post that big, I'd have to go to a mill outside town. The chain stores don't carry 8x8 posts.

Paul

Reply to
Paul

Only about 5" needs to go in the wood.

I think that is probably what I'll do, but I was hoping one of those posters on here with farming experience could tell me what worked in practice. It is obviously a compromise between not splitting the wood and having the spike fall out.

It is made up of sections screwed together and fixed to a wall.

Reply to
Roger Hayter

Usually using a 8" round or a square post when hanging wooden gates out here in the country. If using a spike just drill a 18/19mm hole , it just has to be a friction fit and allow for the wood drying out etc.

If getting it level etc is critical then dont use a spike but a bolt through hook similar to what you are probably using on the top hinge. This give you more adjustment options and drilling the correct diameter hole right through will lessen the risk of splitting the post.

If there is any chance of someone lifting and nicking the gate then turn the top hinge hook upside down.

Reply to
Robert

Thanks. At least I know what I should do. Given the relative frailty of my post I may use a bigger hole to make it easier to drive without breaking the post off the wall. If the hook falls out I can redo it with two part filler!!

Reply to
Roger Hayter

I remember that style of hinge now. It was on our gate back home, the one that opened onto a driveway.

What a pain those are, when the gate begins to droop and you need to adjust it. For years, the bottom of the gate used to drag on the ground, and visitors would have to "pick up" the gate so they could close it. At first, we fiddled with it, but after a while, the family just gave up and nobody cared :-)

The example at the bottom here, with the threads, when the gate droops, you can rotate it anti-clockwise one turn and bring the hinge out and lift the gate a bit. But the resolution is limited to full turns. Some of the other styles don't look all that practical.

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Our posts were not PTL, and I think we had to replace one gate post when it rotted where the pin went in. I don't think any of the fence back home was PTL, ever. And it was a maintenance sink (the scraping, the painting, replacing rails, replacing pickets).

Paul

Reply to
Paul

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