In article , Stuart B
> writes
>>
>>I'm on the 2nd floor . There are cold tanks in the loft...one per side
>>..but they were only used for HW cylinders and I was the last on my
>>side to get a combi recently so i suggested to the Factor that they
>>cap the supply to the tank on my side and drain it down as it wouldn't
>>be getting used . The feed from it is/was in the kitchen anyway so
>>using it isn't an option even if I wanted to use it .
>>
>>You are right in thinking that I posted a message about a drop in
>>pressure after SW did some work recently . The guy did come out but at
>>the time everything seemed fine .
>>After I posted this topic I bought a water pressure gauge ( it was
>>only £10) and I fitted it this afternoon and the pressure was 3 Bar .
>>It went down to just over 2 Barearly evening but now ( just before
>>midnight) it has gone to just over 3 Bar . Even when I turn on the
>>cold in the Basin it still stays above 2 Bar .... I'll se what it is
>>in the morning although it's usually later in the morning before I use >>the shower . >>
>2 bar with the basin open does sounds healthy, is that fully open? How
>about the bath? I think you'd only get a bar or so from the loft tank to the >2nd floor.
>
>Just looked at the specs for a (random) triton electric shower and it was
>1bar min for 9.5kw and 1.5bar for 10.5kw. It looked quite an expensive
>model (T100xr) and it mentioned flow stabilisation:
>
>"The stabiliser valve minimises variations in shower temperature during
>mains water pressure changes. If changes in shower temperature are
>experienced during normal use, it will most likely be caused by the water
>pressure falling near to or below the minimum level. The drop in pressure
>may be due to water being drawn off at other points in the house whilst the
>shower is in use. If pressure drops appreciably below the minimum, the
>heating elements will automatically cut out. "
>
>Don't know if yours might have that, expensive one more likely I imagine,
>cheapie less likely.
>
>If it doesn't have one then I can see variations between 3&2bar upsetting
>the flow & therefore temp quite a bit.
>
>As a workaround I found some stand alone pressure reducers at BES:
>formatting link, if your shower doesn't have a
>stabiliser then this might help but I don't know what their minimum drop is,
>which would be critical. Note I haven't used these, 20quid to try. >
>>What I want is to see what it is at the w/end . I don't know how far
>>the effect on me of others using the cold water spreads . Will it just
>>be this close or also the next one or the one after that as well. ????
>Think the gauge is a good idea.
I said before I wanted to se what happened at the w/end as it was prev w/ends I had the problem .
Last night ( Fri) I went to bed and the pressure gauage was showing 4 Bar ...all week the elec shower has been working perfectly .
This morning around 0930 hrs it was showing 1 Bar and listening to the rising main behind the p/board I could hear water running so someone or something was drawing off cold water . It is now 1045 hrs and still I can hear water running and the pressure remains at 1 bar and the elec shower will not heat up ....same as last w/end .
It's unlikley to be anything deliberate after all that time so I'm trying to suggest to myself what it could be . Could it be a toilet overflow operating . There is no overflow ejecting to the outside so it might be a toilet with an internal overlow but would that make the pressure drop so much .
I'm open to suggestions .
Stuart