Easiest way to plumb in a kitchen sink tap

[James Cort]

Hi,

I have recently fitted a new kitchen. The existing pipes to the sink terminate in isolating valves of the type with a screw thread on one end for connecting to taps approximately 60cm below the level of the sink.

The tap is a mixer which was supplied with flexible monobloc tails.

Unfortunately, the tails supplied with the taps are only about 30cm long and I've been unable to find longer ones.

Given that I am not an experienced amateur plumber, and attaching the tails to the isolating valves is about where my capabilities begin and end, what's going to be the quickest, easiest solution? I'd like to avoid cutting off the water and extending the pipework below the sink by a foot if possible - mainly because the working area around there is pretty tight and I don't trust myself to do it without flooding the kitchen.

[A.Lee]

You dont say what size the tap tails are. I would expect the existing pipework to be 15mm, with a 15mm iso valve?

If so, then you will need a short piece of 15mm pipe, as well as a nut and olive to attach a 3inch or so piece of pipe to the iso valves. You can then buy 2 flexible pipes to attach your 15mm existing pipe to the tap tails. Screwfix are about the cheapest for these flexible pipes, and, usually, keep them in stock:

if the flexible tails on the new tap are long enough, then just connect a 30cm or so bit of pipe to the existing iso valves. Without a pic, or better description, it is difficult to see what you actually need.

Alan.

[hoicem]

I recently fitted a new kitchen tap for the first time.

The flexible tails that come with taps won't fit to 15mm isolation values, the connection is the wrong way round. Or at least that was the case with me. The tails supplied with my taps were designed to be connected to 15mm copper with a compression fitting, not an isolation valve thread. I'd use the flexible tails supplied and that get a flexible hose with the right connection on each end to fill the 30cm space.

Or

Just use copper pipe and connect the supplied tails, you won't need to touch anything below the isolation valve. That's the idea of it.

[stillnobodyhome]

You won't need longer ones . Just get a couple of pieces of 15mm copper of the appropriate length and connect it to the compression fitting on the bottom end of the flexible tail...the olive should be inside the nut ..the other end of the copper should be fitted to the isolating valve ...you will need to get a new pair of olives if you son't already have them there . No need to cut the water off at all ..That's what the valves are for .

[Jim Alexander]

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409 Jim A

[stillnobodyhome]

Hope not cos all the advice he has been given will be wrong as that looks like a Tap Connector at the one end ..lol

[Jim Alexander]

Indeed it is because to quote the OP ....

"The existing pipes to the sink terminate in isolating valves of the type with a screw thread on one end for connecting to taps approximately 60cm below the level of the sink."

Perhaps the OP has appliance isolating valves but its not 100% clear. A photo would help.

Jim A

[The Medway Handyman]

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409>>>>>> Jim A

Good point! Having re read the OP I reckon you are dead right.

If so, easier to turn the water off & start again from the 'upstream' side of the isolating valve - using that nut & olive.

Use a 15mm straight compression fitting, a suitable length of 15mm copper pipe & connect the tail to that.

[stillnobodyhome]

Yeah.When I first read it I wondered about that myself but 60CM ...Is that not about 24 Inches . Pretty long Tap Tails ??? or does it mean the valves are 60 CM below the underside of the sink . As you say a photo is needed or a clearer expl of what the setup is exactly ..lol

[James Cort]

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409>

A picture speaks a thousand words, so here's a photo of the isolating valves. They are indeed compression joints at one end and tap connectors at the other.

the area itself:

[Jim Alexander]

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409>>>> A picture speaks a thousand words, so here's a photo of the isolating

These are appliance connectors not tap connectors but that makes things easier.

Can't see why this won't work.

?productId=87081&imageNo=null&ts=51615Or possibly the 500mm ones might do.

As an aside, always worthwhile testing out all the upstream isolation before doing any plumbing work. Then you might have more confidence to face up to future mods.

Jim A

[stillnobodyhome]

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409>>>>>

I'm going to disagree .I think they ARE Isolation Valves with the top fittings removed .

Don't think so . The OP said that his new taps are monoblocs so will probably have

10mm or 12 mm tails with 15 mm compression at the lower end so we are pretty much back the original suggestion of (1) get a couple of pieces of 15mm copper (2) buy a new isolation valve like the ones already fitted and use the fittings from either end to replace the missing nuts/olives on the existing ones (3) Connect the copper between the valves and the tails and turn the water on and hope for the best .

This is not actually how I personally would do it though .I would turn the water off externally and replace the existing copper and valves to suit the new sink/taps setup and also consider any need for things like washing machine etc valves ( which hasn't been mentioned ) .

[Jim Alexander]

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409>>>>>>>>>> A picture speaks a thousand words, so here's a photo of the isolating

Think I agree with you in which case the OP would have wasted a load of money on my suggestion better spent buying a few tools to do the job properly. Perhaps as you suggest or alternatively converting to push-fit. But that's another argument.

Jim A

[stillnobodyhome]

?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>> And the area itself:

James !!! We are all waiting to hear if your water problem got fixed ???

Stuart