Draughty window

Sliding sash doesn't fit the frame well. Proper solution is to remove the sashes, plane & coats of paint, but them being out for days is not a suggestion met with joy. Is there something I can do that will stop draught but not cause rot? (that skips days of painting)

Reply to
Animal
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There are a few things you can try to stop drafts without causing rot and without removing the sashes for days of painting. Here are a few options:

Weatherstripping: You can apply weatherstripping around the edges of the sash to help seal the gap between the sash and the frame. This can be done with adhesive-backed foam tape or V-strip.

Draught excluder: You can install a draught excluder, also known as a door snake, along the bottom of the sash to block drafts from coming in through the bottom of the window.

Film insulation: You can apply a clear plastic film insulation kit to the inside of the window, which can help to reduce drafts and improve energy efficiency.

Drapes: You can hang thick curtains or drapes over the windows to help insulate against drafts.

Weatherstripping, draught excluder, film insulation and hanging drapes are all relatively simple projects that can be completed with minimal tools and experience.

Weatherstripping and film insulation kits come with instructions and are easy to install. For weatherstripping, you need to measure and cut the foam tape or V-strip to the correct size and apply it around the edges of the sash. For film insulation, you need to clean the window surface, spray water on the window, apply the film and smooth out any bubbles.

Installing a draught excluder is also simple, you just need to measure the width of the window and cut the draught excluder to size, and then place it along the bottom of the sash.

Hanging drapes or curtains is also an easy task, you just need to have a measuring tape, a drill and screws or hooks to hang the curtains or drapes.

Reply to
HomeOwnersHub Advisor

Perspex sheet secondary glazing is one of the most apparently successful I've come across. Might well do it here for next winter.

Reply to
RJH

Yes and don't do as I did and buy very heavy curtain drapes that break the brackets holding up the rail due to their weight. You will still get draughts though as there is always a gap at the tope of them and the bottom where it folds lets the air out. When we occupied a place with sash windows we glued plexiglass panels over the inner frame each winter. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

The chance of curtains stopping a draught is zero I guess the only real option is stick-on strips of some sort. Feels bodgy but I don't see a better option.

Reply to
Animal

Isnt it going to scratch easily when cleaning ?

Reply to
Rod Speed

I have a set of thermal curtains that attach to the frame with Velcro. No gaps, no draughts.

Reply to
Colin Bignell

If you temporarily remove the sashes, you can replace the parting beads and staff beads with the sort which have draft excluder attached, such as

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Reply to
Roger Mills

Interesting, cheers. But cutting to fit & painting them takes days. The gaps are top & bottom rather than sides.

Reply to
Animal

Not a quick or cheap solution, but perhaps for the future...

We had some sash windows renovated by Ventrolla. Essentially, they rout a groove around the window frames and fit a brush strip. It works very well for draughts and rattles, and the frames slide nice and smoothly.

Reply to
Clive Arthur

One solution is simply to install modern Building Regulation compliant sash windows.

Another is to tape them shut.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

(In general), are brush strips useful for draught proofing? I have always been pretty dubious.

I know that there are brush strips fitted to letter-box flaps; I can see that they have their purpose but very much doubt that they help draughts any.

For more 'restricted' areas - under doors, sash windows etc, I can see how they

*might* work a bit. But they seem a bit like a snake oil solution to me. Are there any objective reports on their efficacy?

Thanks, J^n

Reply to
jkn

They are better than nothing. What else would you use where a sliding seal is needed?

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I don't really understand. There's a gap, you fill it with brush, the gap is very much less so the draught is very much less. How could that not work?

Pictures if you google 'Ventrolla brush' or similar. I imagine there are other systems too, we used them because of a recommendation for conservation area windows.

Reply to
Clive Arthur

A linear version of a labyrinth seal? Basically two metal strips, with multiple Vs.

Reply to
SteveW

The Ventrolla system appears to be a linear brush, with some sort of flexible wiper type blade along the centre of the brush. That should be able to provide a much better seal than a basic brush, as used for a letter-box.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield Esq

foam, flexy plastic, rubber, even seen metal strip used.

Reply to
Animal

I don't have an alternative; but my feeling is that the leeway between 'loose enough to be able to close onto the brushes - but still leaving a lot of air gaps' and 'a good seal formed - but impossible to actually close the window' is so small that unless extremely carefully fitted, they are likely to be an unsatisfactory solution.

I've also seen plenty of under-door brushes fitted where there is still a gap under the brush!

Reply to
jkn

Brush seals do work on sliding sashes, it just makes them a little stiff

Reply to
Animal

Lotta friction unless its really well made. You would probably do better with an oil seal like arrangement - rubber peaks and troughs. And some KY gel...

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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