Do I need a new SCMS?

[The Medway Handyman]

Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for long term?

Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for decking - trimming

150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x 47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm off. Easier at floor level.

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?

[R D S]

I fancied one of these a while back after seeing a demo on a shopping channel (yes, I know!) was about £30.

't find any for sale in the UK ATM though.

[The Medway Handyman]

Screwfix sell something similar

downside is that the timber has to pass through the guide, I want something I can just drop on top & clamp.

[R D S]

I think that's exactly the same, a bit much at £40 though IMO, though a new gadget might provoke a bit of DIY action.

[<me9]

Looks a fairly easy DIY job.

[dom]

When I was doing a lot of 50*200 joists (80 or so), it was easier to slide each one of the end of the bundle (as dropped outside by the builders merchant), clamp on a right angle template (a bit like a bench hook) and use a hand held circular saw.

However that was when the alternative a basic DW700 DeWalt SCMS and its very basic leg stand. I used to use improvised supports for the long end of long timbers.

More recently, I took the plunge an bought the 12" Bosch SCMS and the bosch bench for it.

is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber supports (one either end) and the saw are all on a common base - it's all completely level and square.

It's a lot of dosh, but has transformed the way I work. I now have a stack of 4.8m timbers at one end of the bench, and simply slide the next one off the top of the bundle and up onto the bench and snip off what I need.

I've found in practice I don't end up with a lot of short ends (because I always look at the odd bits stacked vertically first), and simply order another bundle from the BM's as necessary. By sticking to the largest size my bench can handle comfortably, I think I've got it as efficient as I can in terms of timber handling and simplified ordering.

So my advice is - if you replace your SCMS - budget for a bench (and you'll probably not want to go back to a handheld CS unless you have to).

[dom]

...and don't buy a cheap bench. I got a "free" one with Bosch saw from Axminster. It's still lying about here, if anyone wants it.

[dennis]

A square ply base with a strip at 90 degrees and an eccentric clamp made from a 100 mm disk of ply. Put it on, turn the disk to lock it and cut.

[The Medway Handyman]

Excellent! Thank you.

[John Rumm]

As another alternative you may find you can replace bits of the existing one to return it to serviceable condition. Axminster sometimes have spares for these things.

You could do that with a 10" chop saw rather than a sliding one probably.

I can see the dilemma. Although I expect if you had one of the decent stands like Dom suggested you would find its actually quite a comfortable way of working. Using a sliding saw you can also stack up a pile of boards and cut a number at a time. The big SCMS will probably do

8 deck boards at a time for example.

(my 12" SCMS and stand is lovely to use for this sort of thing, but it is 'kin heavy to shift about. The Makita stand is nice and solid, but being steel rather than Ali is pretty heavy just by itself).

Could be in some cases. As could be laying a number of boards overlength and then trimming them all together with a hand held saw and a straight edge.

[The Medway Handyman]

I've checked that out & they did have most of the parts, but at a fairly high cost. Not far of the cost of a new Aldi or Titan one.

I've only seen one 250mm non slider that will cut a 150 x 47 and thats the Titan from SF. At £60 its cheap enough. Most will only cut 130 - 140mm.

Still got to double handle the timber - lift it up onto the saw, then down onto the floor. Plus getting the big stand into the van.

Easiest way is to trim the boards after they are laid, I use a sawbord & circ saw. If you plan things correctly you can buy the boards almost the right size - provided the supplier has that size in stock of course.

I spent an hour or so today mucking about with some 12mm ply & a strip of ally angle.

After a few trials I ended up with a saw board based cross cut jig that works a real treat. I have an old, but good, B&D circ saw with a 65mm dopth of cut, so with 12mm ply it still gives 53mm capacity.

I'll give it a try on the next deck (prolly next year by now) & see how it goes, but I reckon it will save time overall.

[auctions]

I can recommend the SIP 10" extra wide saw. Cuts up to 68 x 160mm, and is solidly built and powerful.

It's this model

they have been available for less than that - an ebay seller had them on clearance for under =A350 recently. It's basically the same as their =A3150 10" sliding saw without the slide.

A

[John Rumm]

The double handling is not as bad as you would expect - just set up the saw close to the pile of wood, measure you next cut and snip off what you need - taking another plank from the pile if you need.

The stands fold up into a relatively small package (I suppose my one goes down to something a bit bigger than a pipe bender). The alloy versions are not that heavy. (you can usually use the wheels on them to drag them along behind you anyway)

might do... hard to say until you try it.

[The Medway Handyman]

Trust me matey, it is :-)

I get the timber delivered the day before I start the deck. Invariably it is dropped on the drive. Current proceedure - carry from drive to saw, cut & carry to deck site. If I can cut it on the drive with a jig it takes out an entire step.

I only have experience of the free stand that came with my Axminster saw. Heavy & bulky on its own - and it's only a stand for the saw, no out riggers.

Indeed. The proof is in the pudding as they say. I reckon its going to work well though.

[stuart noble]

I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is (obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only have to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the bottom you don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece of ply on the other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge. Blimey, easier to make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if you're interested.

[John Rumm]

The stand I have (middle one):

sliding outriggers that mean you can work on stuff upto 5m long without too much difficulty. They are height adjustable, and have settable end stops for doing repeat cuts.

I found the ordinary stands (or just a workmate) are quite difficult to use with longer timber since you are forever repositioning extra stands etc to take the free end of the wood.

[The Medway Handyman]

I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll show you mine if you show me yours :-)

[Rod]

Did you see Little Britain in the US last night? Not always my favourite, but you definitely reminded me of one scene... :-)

[stuart noble]

Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

[John Rumm]

Am I the only one that thought: