DIY DG demist

I suspect the large pressure changes experienced by an aircraft help there - every time you go up a lot of the air gets forced out, only to be replaced on the way back down.

Andy

Reply to
Andy Champ
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Dave has brought this to us :

Not to mention the cost of hiring an aircraft to take the panel up :-)

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

We've just misted glass planes replaced in a couple of our 15 yr windows. The ease at which the original glass was lifted out - from the outside - and disparaging comments on security by the installer after the job was finished, made me wish that there and then we stumped up for the replacement of the whole aluminium frame and not just the glass!

Oh well :-|

(BTW if some of ye feel like some burglary in me gaff, beware of the dog...)

Reply to
Adrian C

A1 Glass in Strood are very good, give Alan call, sensible bloke.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Not sure about aluminium, but with PVC, window tape is used nowadays instead of the internal strips. Whilst you can still lever out the external beading, you can't lift the glass out afterwards.

There was a period of having the beading internal, but that makes the frames much more bulbus and less glass to let light through, particularly on openers. Some people still ask for this, but it's really a hangover from the past.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:

Another good tip, thanks.

I'll get quotes from both of them. Have about 3m2 of misted panels in ali that need attention.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:

My beading came internal as standard - I'd though it was normal...

Reply to
Tim S

Its OK they always carry a can for the dog.

Reply to
dennis

Reminds me of an old joke...

Kid: Want us to look after yer car for a fiver mate? Man: It's ok, my dog's in it and he'd make a mess of anyone who touches it! Kid: Can it put out fires?

Reply to
Davey

Don't know where the holes are drilled, advert just says 'a hole is drilled in the top and bottom of the glass'. Could be the seal, but I get the feeling from the ad that the glass is left in situ. Some good suggestions on here, I might give them a go.

Back to my original Q - where can I buy the fluid and valve to DIY ?

Reply to
jj

Some double glazing units are Argon filled.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

But would this (what I would assume to be an old panel) be argon filled. It is old and the OP is just wanting to prolong its useful life a little longer.

The silica gel in the pump box suggestion was a good one. I think that was a part of the method I read.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Any original filling has been lost and replaced by air many times over long before the condensation became visible.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

"Any original filling has been lost and replaced by air many times over long before the condensation became visible."

I am looking at making a set of patio doors - but I don't like the idea of sealed DG units that will probably or definitely go off in 5 years time or even less.. didn't windows used to last for a century?

I was thinking of installing two panes of toughened glass to each door as with a DG unit, but with the panes not sealed. The interior facing pane on its own frame with spacer fixings. This would be to give ventilation between the panes to reduce condensation, but be able to close them up tight when it gets really cold during the winter. Are there reasons why this wouldn't work?

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Reply to
Hugo Frazer

On my misty DG unit, I'm thinking it's easier just to percolate through a bag of silica gel dessicant.

Reply to
john

frame, if used, and require regular wiping.

The way to solve this is to vent the space to the outside rather than inside, then no condensation occurs. Maybe use a plug of 9:1 sand and cement to keep insects etc out

NT

Reply to
NT

probably alcohol with a crazy markup

NT

Reply to
NT

That's after the seal has failed (to put it back in context).

When properly manufactured and properly fitted, sealed units will last for a long time. I replaced some first generation double glazing after about 25 years, and only one out of probably some

30 panes failed in that time, and that was due to someone having removed the unit at some point in the past and damaged it in doing so. The patio windows in my current house are 20 years old, with no sign of failing seals.

You will always get condensation at some point if the unit isn't sealed. The temperature differential, temperature variations, and time to diffuse replacement air in just won't keep the inside dry.

If you are designing your own doors to take sealed units, it's vital to understand the environment in which the units must be fitted, as it's incorrect fitting that results in most sealed unit failures over time. The main cause of failure is that the unit ends up sitting in a puddle in the bottom of the frame. In plastic frames, the unit should sit on a number of plastic spacers along the bottom, which hold it above the drainage channels in the frame. The drainage channels must actually work and drain the water away from the bottom channels. The rubber seals against the glass are not designed to be completely waterproof (they're designed for speedy fit by less skilled fitters instead) and water which gets through must drain out.

I don't know how it's supposed to work with timber frames.

With first generation metal frames, the outer glass was sealed to the frame to prevent any water ingress, and where this was done properly, those units at now over 30 years old are still fine. The snag is that fitting those units was a much more skilled job than fitting today's PVC units is, which made them both relatively more expensive and/or more prone to being fitted wrongly.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

In message , Andrew Gabriel writes

I have just done some after criticising the builder's efforts. The rebate is suited to the current dg width plus two lots of 3mm thick arboseal. The glass is stood on plastic spacers as you describe. The bottom bead is *L* shaped and stands on thicker rigid plastic spacers thus leaving a space for water to escape and the *L* forming a weather drip.

regards

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

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