Hi, I checked the CV boots on my fwd phase II 2000 W Renault Scenic yesterday and the ends closest to the wheels had slipped of slightly (not completely).
Any idea how this happens?
On the other end of the CV boot (end nearer the centre of the car) is a jubilee clip holding that end in place. There is nothing on the ends that came loose. Should there be?
Thank you,
Neil
originally there was probably a thin metal band. A diy repair with a cable tie is fine , just re-check after you have used it a bit, as some vehicles put too much strain on a cable tie when the wheels are turned, in which case you will need the correct clamp, which may need a special tool to fit, and probably is not available on its own !!
mrcheerful
Yes there should be, and if the inner end really does have a jubilee clip holding it then it's been well bodged !
The proper method uses a special clip that is made from steel wound around it's self several times but a suitable replacement is a standard cable tie (you will need a long one for the outer - wheel - end of the boot). If the boot has been displaced for sometime there will probably be a lot of grease deposited onto the hub area, you really need to obtain a new sachet of this grease to replace what is now missing, this is special CV grease and it is also horrid stuff to work with - wear latex or similar gloves !....
slightly
There should be a clip each end.
Nowt wrong with jubilee clips, theyre the best option for the job. Better than the usual metal bands, which are weaker and can come off.
Cable ties often work, but also often fail due to inadequate strength. If they were really adequate, the originals would be the cheaper plastic ties as well.
NT
Some cars came with jubilee clips out of the factory.
:::Jerry:::: laid this down on his screen :
No true. Some repair kits are supplied complete with Jubilee clips, others are supplied with cable ties.
But they don't sit flush, which can supposedly cause problems.
A few turns of soft iron wire (the green plastic coated stuff you use for garden ties) will sometimes do a better job than a plastic tie.
jubilee
wound
wheel -
there
I didn't say there shouldn't be, just that the clip apparently used is wrong and a bodge.
Oh right, so the people who frigging designed the joint / boot don't know what they are doing but some bod on a newsgroup does ?!....
The part of the jubilee clip that contains the worm drive is far to large, not only could foul the boot causing premature wear, it used on the larger part of the joint (hub or gearbox side of the point) it might foul castings and it could also cause the shaft to go out of balance - although in most situation this will not be noticeable.
strength.
What is lacking here is due to the person doing the job me thinks, seeing that I could well have replaced more CV boots of all descriptions (without problems) than you have ever seen !...
NOT....
Care to name one ?....
Indeed, that was the standard way of retaining BMC / BL CV boots if the OE 'clip' was not available, any other clip would foul the hub knuckle casting. Most people used engineering locking wire.
jubilee
Are you talking about IE hits or cheap after market kits, I have never seen Jubilee clips in any kit (OE or AM), most of the AM kits I've worked with had cable ties if they didn't have OE style clips. Care to name a make / supplier ?
It happens that :::Jerry:::: formulated :
It is rather a long time since I last needed to replace one, but from memory they used a thinner than your normal Jubilee clip... Probably to avoiding the fouling you mention.
Saab 900 (OG).
Possibly the type of "jubilee" clip that had a nut and bolt to secure it meaning the metal of the clip was flat to the boot and avoiding tearing it as the modern jubilee clip would. Stuart ...
Shift THELEVER to reply.
It happens that Stuart formulated :
Someone in part of the thread mentioned SAAB as using jubilee clips as OEM. I think it probably was a SAAB when I last had to change a CV.
I was always told that the worm gear end caused the whole half-shaft to be unbalanced, leading to subtle but wearing vibration ...
I'm sure there's someone here who could work out the torque cause by 1g spinning about an axis of 6-10cm at 1000+rpm ?
Besides on many cars there isn't enough clearance for the worm gear.
The proper way is a roll of thinly cut (about 5mm) sheet metal, and a box of metal fasteners. You wind the metal twice around the boot, cut it, and fold about 1cm over one hole in the clip. You then use a special pair of pliers (which also act as cutters for the above) and grip the metal whilst pulling on the clip.
Result - a fitting which is better than new.
I believe Snap-On sell the kit. Pliers, metal band, and a box of clips.
compared to the out of balance on even a balanced roadwheel, tiny. Compared to the vibration caused by travelling down a road, imperceptible. A non issue.
might be a problem in those cases :)
I would not choose iron wire, as it cant put anywhere near as much retaining force on without cutting into the plastic rubber.
NT
half-shaft
Err no, the hub / suspension is designed to cope with out of balance wheels etc, a 'floating' driveshaft, mounted between two CV joints, that is out of balance is another matter altogether...
But it is better than a worm drive clip.
why dont we try and keep this sensible. Bands are used in prodution because theyre cheaper in materials and more importantly cheaper in labour, ie quicker to fit. They have high enough reliability for the job, but are not perfect, and do occasionally come off.
might be an issue on some cars, not the ones Ive worked on, which isnt many.
ditto. Any competent person can check it has clearance before fitting, and if not use something else.
this has neen adressed already. The vibration caused by a gram of worm screw is imperceptible compared to the vibration transmitted to the shaft by road conditions. It is not a genuine issue.
Then why is it that manufactureres dont use the cheaper plastic ties? They would if they were fully satisfactory. I suspect the deal is that theyre not reliable enough for production, but reliable enough for later repairs - which demand a significantly lower level of reliability.
NT
That is the most accurate th
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