Damp wall - good case for injection?

[Grunff]

Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later, the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything else to consider first?

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:

- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height

- drill holes and inject

- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Any thoughts?

TIA

[Owain]

Why is the party wall damp and not the other walls?

Is the underfloor space on both sides of the wall well ventilated?

Is the wall damp on the other side?

Owain

[Zoinks]

Read my previous posts on damp meters and the fiasco we went through )c:

One of the botches the first injection company made was to use the wrong kind of plaster - there is a special damp-resistant hydrophobic plaster you should be using. I believe it's called refurbishment plaster (Vandex).

read this from a sack in a skip you can make your own mind up... There may be much cheaper alternatives.

[Phil L]

Basically yes.

1) take off the skirting board and hack off a metre (do the full wall, not just a 3ft patch) 2) Drill two holes in each brick, approximately half way through (try not to break off the back of the brick, and don't 'guess' - use a marker on the bit) - this has to be done on the inner and outer skin and on the same course. 3) Use a fairly strong mix of render for the base coat - about 4:1 - you may have to do this in two, each coat being about 1/4 inch. You can get waterproofing that goes in the mix, but be warned, don't leave it for any length of time before adding the top coat of render because the W/proofing will cause the second coat not to adhere, you'll have to do both coats in the same day. 4) Skim as normal 5) replace (or renew) skirting board

If it were mine, I would leave it for a few months inbetween injection and render, especially if it's in an inobtrusive place, but if it's in his living room then he might want to get it finished within a few days, but it will still take months for it to dry out.

HTH

[meow2222]

Rising damp exists, but in the vast majority of cases it isnt rising damp. Condensation is many times more likely. So it makes more sense to take measures against condensation than rising damp.

Lime based paint will let the wall evaporate dry (distemper), emulsion reduces evaporation. Lowering the RH in the interior is needed to stop condensation: look at your sources of dampness and address them.

NT

[blue]

------ snip -----

is it solid or cavity wall ? if cavity wall check cavity is not full up with bits & pieces - bits of mortar, bits of slate (especially if been re-roofed) bits of rubble old newspapers - certainly was the case in a couple of late-1800's plaeces I have renovated - means removing a few bricks (probably 1 every 4 bricks) above the founds level but if lime mortar is fairly easy to cut into to remove a brick with out smashing the brick... then use an appropriate implement (L-shaped bit of anything) to drag the contents of the cavity out.

is the outside rendered ? check for hollow sounds in case render is blown in places also what are the comparative floor levels of 'inside' and 'outside' - check the 'outside' isn't higher than 'inside' - flowerbeds banked up against the wall aren't a good idea...

if inside plaster is shot, knock it off then clean all the mortar out of joints to about 1 inch lime mortar doesn't mix well with some modern inside wall coverings. don't use 'browning' for the first coat - opc/plasterer's sand (with waterproofer) is better

scuse pelling mistafes

che

[<me9]

If it's a party wall, then the neighbours may get upset at taking bricks out especially as it could be single brick. Any effective work must be in conjunction with the other party. unilateral work comes under the party walls act, beware.

[Christian McArdle]

However, you do have a right to damp proof the full width of a party wall, not only without consent, but even with your neighbour's opposition. Obviously, there are procedures to follow.

Christian.

[Mark]

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot of bollocks from experts who have never had any dealings with rising Damp. FWIW I have successfully used these products

a DPM and as the necessary render admix. Make you own mind up.. As this is a party wall you will need to consult the neighbour before starting work, also if it is a cavity wall you really should try to clean out the crap that will be by now filling the bottom few feet. Which could be the underlying reason for the damp in the first place.

-

[Phil L]

Didn't see the bit about party wall.

After damp proofing the inner brick, you will need to drill through the existing holes and into the second brick (which is in fact next doors) and use long injection wands to inject the fluid into that, you'd be wise to tell next doors that you are doing it and that they may smell some DP fluid, I doubt if they will argue, but if they're awkwards bastards to begin with, just don't tell them.

[Christian McArdle]

We have the same attitude to the Party Wall Act, then! We got the beams for the loft conversion in nice and quick before any injunction could be issued...

We get on well with both sets of neighbours. However, both houses are rented out and landlords can be complete arses!

Christian.

[Phil]

Hmmm.... any leaky pipes nearby?

[Phil L]

I agree, a lot of people like to create a fuss for no other reason than they can and have various obscure 'laws' on their side, they gain nothing, but it gives them a feeling of victory nontheless, my philosophy is 'do it first' and any complaints afterwards are a matter fr the courts, who will usually tell the busybody to piss off and get a life.

[Phil L]

That looks like good stuff, how much is it? and where can you get it?

[Mark]

follow the purchasing link :(

-

[Phil L]

Yes that says various builders merchants but doesn't mention the price, how much did you pay for it?

[Mark]

Oh sorry I thought that would lead to a prices page, try

can get it cheaper from a BM if you have an account. Its more expensive then pressure injecting, but for a party wall would be a much better choice, as its not necessary to drill into the bricks.

-

[Phil L]

That's not bad...the cream is a bit pricey but a lot less hassle, the applicator is about 40 quid but it costs that to hire a pump for a day, and very often it takes less than a day to do a full house meaning most of the forty quid is wasted, with the applicator it's yours for good.

I may have to invest in one of these next time I get a DP job....the silicone stinks to high heavens for 3 weeks after installation and leaves large red sore patches on the skin. Cheers for that info.

[manatbandq]

The other side of a party wall is probably plastered and decorated ;-)

Both sides of a perty wall should be 'inside' ;-)

I sincerely hope not on a party wall ;-)

An comprehension of the OP

MBQ

[blue]

sorry, missed the "party" bit..

(as usual)