On Tue, 3 Sep 2013 07:13:37 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
Which is why I'd take 15 mm from each. It would also mean that the
smaller timber wouldn't need any additional fixing to stop it sliding
sideways along the top of the larger. Niether bit would be able to
move relative to the other.
Wood glues provide considerable shear strength, but not much tensile
strength. In your half-lap, the "filled" notch on the compression side
gives you back just about all of the strength. But the notch on the
tension side depends on the tensile strength of the glue. So (assuming
it is a "floor" with the loads downwards) you want the notches in the
top face of the "more important" timber.
On Mon, 2 Sep 2013 06:16:44 +0100, harryagain wrote:
Only because any monkey can wield a hammer but it takes time and a
bit of skill to cut, accurate, tight fitting notches. I'd be inclined
to notch both bits of timber half the required depth than notch just
one the full depth though.
Dado blades aren't allowed in the UK because of Effin Softy.
I do this all the time, notching newel posts for decking.
Circular saw set to the depth you want. Use a rafter square, home made
jig or one of these;
(Amazon.com product link shortened)78107141&sr=8-11&keywords=kreg
to ensure a square cut. Cut each side accurately, then make a series of
free hand cuts a few mm apart (working right to left, so the base of the
saw is supported).
Knock out the waste & trim with a sharp chisel.
Fast & accurate.
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
I did a lot of searching on w/end on this .... Dado blades are not
something that can be attached to your average DIY saw table ... as
arbor length is not long enough.
Several DIY tables specifically state that a you must NOT fit a Dado blade.
They are available for Commercial (Wadkin etc.) table saws, but elfen
safely does come into this .... in a Commercial use, there is a required
maximum duration for blade to come to a stop after stop is pressed, and
fitting a Dado blade will normally cause saw to exceed this.
The way around is that they then have to fit a DC brake to ensure it
stops within required time.
On Monday, 2 September 2013 11:37:45 UTC+1, Rick Hughes wrote:
Lots of older (large/pro) tale saws needed DC brakes fitting to them to meet regs, even without a dado set. Inverters can do all that now.
AIUI since the HSE banned the use of dadoes, they did it by specifying the max length of arbor on new table saws on sale - not by banning the sale of dadoes.
Industrial woodworking machines have a maximum time for the blade to come to rest, and this applied retrospectively, hence many machines with DC braking retrofitted.
I think dadoes were also banned in industry (i.e. you had to discontinue using them), *and* a maximum length of arbor specified for all new machines sold.
On 02/09/2013 17:02, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yup I was aware of the time limitation, and also the short arbour
problem. Just not sure if there was actually an industrial ban on dadoes
as such. They don't strike me as particularly dangerous (compared to
wobble blades say).
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