Cutting and drilling lead

[Roger Mills]

I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights.

What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind when they get a little way in.

Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? ]

[The Natural Philosopher]

get a new cheap cross cut saw at a guess.

You need a wide kerf or it tends to clog.

[John Rumm]

If replacing the weights I would do the cord at the same time unless it was replaced recently. Sash cord is fairly cheap.

Fine toothed saw IME - although not as fine as your normal hacksaw blade. For drilling, HSS bit with lubrication possibly (not tried drilling through much thickness of lead to be honest)

[The Natural Philosopher]

I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts and clogs.

[Chris Wilson]

Roger Mills wrote in news:92ijc4Foo8U1 @mid.individual.net:

TBH I'd cast my own from scrap lead.

Lead will melt on a primus/camping gas stove and you could make your own moulds from just about anything when it's for single use, even a well supported wooden box with a peg in it (for the hole) would do for lead. It's not as though you need a fine finish as they'll be hidden away.

[Tabby]

Might be easier to tie a knot that will fit down the existing hole, and wack a nail in the side to stop it coming out. (If necessary split the cord before knotting.)

NT

[fred]

In article , Roger Mills writes

Will that still pull through the centreline of the weight?

An alternative I've used is to drill a smaller horizontal hole and fix a loop of fixing strap over the top for the sash cord to be tied to. Self tappers would do for fixing it in the lead.

[Cash]

The OP should also weigh the sashes complete with the glass, and the cut the lead weights so that their combined weight is equal to the sash - otherwise they will not stay in a partially open position for ventilation.

Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups.

Cash

[Andy Dingley]

Cast it into a mould made from beercans and origami. Use a Chinese supermarket ladle and a gas blowtorch.

[Matty F]

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :)

[The Medway Handyman]

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)

[The Natural Philosopher]

With full dust collection faciliites. Highly toxic material.

[The Natural Philosopher]

DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

[DDS]

Yes it is.

"It is weakly radioactive and remains so because of its long physical half-life (4.468 billion years..." according to the World Health Organisation, and also Wikipedia and the BBC

[dennis]

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)

[Roger Mills]

Do you mean a wood saw?

[Roger Mills]

I found when I experimented on a lump of lead with an HS bit in a cordless drill that swarf was thrown out in long ribbons, some of which congealed round the mouth of the hole - a bit like candle wax.

I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work?

[Roger Mills]

Yes I've done that. I weighed the sashes on bathroom scales, when I removed them earlier. *And* I weighed the existing weights, and found them to be about 40% light!

The perceived wisdom of the people supplying the new weights is to slightly over-weight the top sashes and under-weight the bottom sashes. Friction should still make then stay put, but with a slight bias towards self closing.

I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via news.individual.net

[tony sayer]

In article , dennis@home scribeth thus

Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?..

[dennis]

Probably.