Cottage wetroom

Shower installed.
Now stressing about boxing the soil pipe run to the toilet.
Simplest is tiling on waterproof ply over treated timber frame. Damp area and rot issues due to no ventilation?
Can't screw to floor but could glue to ceramic tiles. Anyone done it?
--
Tim Lamb

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Almost done that. Front of corner toilet frame covered with waterproof ply (19mm) tiled over. Ply is 6mm off the floor but gap bridged with stainless steel coving type moulding sealed with tile grout. No sign of deterioration after four years, which is fortunate because wall mounting toilet is fixed against it (with bolts from the frame of course). I think I would be happier with a steel or aluminium frame if the space is not ventilated.
--

Roger Hayter

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hmm... I've got some aluminium channel.
Any thoughts about securing to the floor? The cistern will bolt to the boxing and I will follow John's advice on silicone to fix the toilet base. (underfloor heating pipes).

--
Tim Lamb

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Assuming screwing it to the floor is inconvenient you could use one of the structural adhesives for building now advertised. I used something made by CT1 called "Power grab and bond" which seems to work well where it has to fill gaps. I didn't try it with aluminium though it claims to work.
--

Roger Hayter

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Do you really need to box it? Why not just paint it to blend in with whatever is around it?
--
Chris Green
·

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
writes

Excellent question:-)
My wife suffers from *cleaning syndrome* and an aversion to Spiders. Cracks and gaps are therefore suspect places. Her strong preference is for toilets that fit *back to the wall* with no visible plumbing connections!
When purchasing this particular toilet set, I forgot that, because the soil pipe enters from the side wall, this feature would require boxing. Worse, the pipe enters through the left wall and the toilet will be positioned near the right!

--
Tim Lamb

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/09/2018 21:54, Tim Lamb wrote:

Ply ought to be fine. If you are really worried, then grab a few boards of aquapanel from Wickes to clad your boxing with. Seal with a decent sealant when done. Also seal the internal corners rather than grouting them. That way it stays water tight with movement / shrinkage.

Yup, fix the battens to the floor with either silicone, or one of the combined modified silane bond and seal compounds. Plumbers Gold from toolstation is quite good for this - its a little bit stiffer to work than normal silicone, but it sticks and seals pretty much anything. It also stands up to aggressive cleaning better than silicone.
--
Cheers,

John.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Stixall I have. Todays mistake was fitting the flexible supply pipe with the toilet/cistern assembled. Out of sight plastic thread. Spanner tight but free movement in the pipe! Cross threaded coupling nut!! Oh well, if the second attempt leaks there is always plumbers mait.
--
Tim Lamb

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.