Hello, all. Back after a long absence, I'd be grateful if anyone has any thoughts on this:
I'm installing a bunch of cables for an all-house audio system, which in the central hub area involves running six cables (each approx 9mm outside diameter) alongside each other for a few feet.
I could of course fix them with individual cable clips but that would mean having a small gap between each cable where the clips are pinned; it would be a lot neater (and save some space) if the cables could be absolutely side-by-side. Is there a standard way of doing that?
Many thanks.
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T
Theo
Put them all in trunking? Then you don't need to see the cable run.
There is also cable basket (you cable tie them at regular intervals along the basket), but that's more intended for industrial uses.
If you search Amazon/Ali/etc for 'cable comb' you can find plastic pieces that are designed to hold cables together in a flat run - typically power cables inside PCs but maybe you can find something of suitable size. Or 3D print your own.
Theo
T
The Natural Philosopher
3D print custom cable clips? Hot glue them to the wall?
3D print custom cable trunking?
B
BertCoules
Many thanks for the speedy replies. "Cable comb" hadn't occurred to me as a search term, so I'll follow that up. Glueing, hot or otherwise, doesn't really appeal: I'd like to keep options open for any possible future alterations.
I'm increasingly regretting that I don't (yet?) own a 3D printer.
B
BertCoules
I've seen (and used) trunking designed to take something like two or three cables but I don't know of any that can accommodate six. I'll investigate; thanks.
B
BertCoules
Thanks for the thought. It would have to be pretty powerful adhesive: The loose cables don't lie particularly flat or straight and wouldn't be easily subdued, I think. But it's an intriguing idea.
S
Scott
Before anyone else suggests it, what about WiFi to dispense with the need for cables?
N
No mail
Trunking is available in a huge range of sizes. If the run is on display then the "D" shaped type (D-line?) might look better than rectangular - available in a few colours. Alternatively, it would be very easy to make suitable retainers out of hardwood strips, cut like a flat bridge (can't think of a better description). One way would be to drill holes on the centre line, cut/file/rout to a rectangular hole, cut lengthways into two pieces.
B
BertCoules
Thanks. I've been thinking along that line myself, but with the half-holes left intact, as separate (but very close) pathways for the cable.
T
Tricky Dicky
No need to go to that size plenty of smaller sizes available such as;
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Will easily fit six 9mm cables
T
The Natural Philosopher
There is also a lot to learn about 3D CAD and driving the 'slicer'
BIG learning curve
T
Theo
TBH most of the time I just print files somebody else has designed, because I don't have time to design something myself.
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is a good search engine for 3D files.
There are lots of cable comb search results:
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including many for network cable and some for mains cables, which might be roughly the right thickness for the OP.
(I did print some, but I can't remember which design - they all look roughly similar)
Theo
T
Theo
Modern 3D printers don't need taming. I have a Centauri Carbon v1 and it 'just works', and for £240 it doesn't take a great deal of outsourced prints to make it pay:
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Cheap PLA ('Deeplee' from Amazon) is about £9/kg and fine for prototyping and most finished articles. It'll do other filaments like PETG but I rarely need them.
The new £399 Centauri Carbon v2 has an automatic material changer for up to
4 materials. I don't make multicolour prints so I don't really care about that, although it would be nice not to have to go into the garage to change filaments when I want to print something in a different material/colour. (The printer is on a smart power plug, so I can turn it on and send files to it remotely. I still have to go and collect the finished articles though)
The key advantage of owning your printer is you can prototype easily: you can print something, try it for size, make changes and print again, etc. When you're doing something that needs to be right in more than one dimension at a time, IMHO it's invaluable to hold the actual thing in your hand and try it.
+1. Especially good if you want to make the model parameterisable. eg you can write WIDTH = 40.3; and calculate everything from there - to change the width just edit the variable. In 3D CAD you can't always do calculations of any kind of complexity inside the package.
Just turn on supports in your slicer and printing upside down is no problem at all. I use OrcaSlicer's 'tree-style supports' - it prints little tree trunks and branches to hold up the parts which are hanging in mid air, and they easily snap off when the part has cooled.
Theo
J
John Rumm
It might be big, but you can get started with the basics fairly easily IME.
You can start with downloading existing models from thingiverse, or printables.com. Just open the model in the slicer, accept the defaults and hit print. All you really need do is tell it what type of material you have loaded in the printer.
There are also a number of easy to use online modelling packages that work in a web browser like tinker cad.
You can even coerce local desktop apps like sketchup to make 3d models in a pinch (it can work, although sketchup is not really a solid object modelling tool)
Personally after looking at a number of options I decided to learn FreeCAD, as it is a full parametric[1] modelling tool like Fusion 360 or Solidworks, but without the huge price tag of the commercial versions or the restrictive limitations of the "maker" versions of the commercial tools.
[1] Parametric modelling creates models that can be driven by constraints, variables, and even calculations, rather than everything being a just a static bit of fixed geometry the moment you finish drawing it.
Models are built in steps, and the software remembers those steps, so if you go back and make a change to an earlier step, those changes can be propagated through all the later steps without needing to redraw stuff.
T
The Natural Philosopher
You add supports that you break away once printed
Other technologies (resin and
T
Theo
+1. I think the release of FreeCAD 1.0 was the moment at which it's become usable enough for real work[*]. Before there was just too much weird UIs and awkward corner cases (eg the 'topological naming problem'). It is still a mountain to climb but the mountain is now more similar in size to other packages. And at least with FreeCAD you aren't locked in by subscriptions or cloud accounts, and hopefully it will continue to get better.
[*] I'd call it its 'Kicad moment', from the time when Kicad changed from being an awkward-to-use open source tool to now where it's the package of choice for most people who are not doing ultra-complicated stuff.
Theo
B
BertCoules
Many thanks to everyone for the further thoughts. I'm going with plastic trunking: it's not exactly the solution I originally had in mind but it's neat and easily secured and will do the job nicely.
Thanks too for the spin off comments about 3D printing: fascinating stuff.
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