Reusing computer A/C cords?

I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

Reply to
KenK
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Your method should work fine other than the fact that the cords aren't very long. Once you start stringing them together for length, you'll run into i ssues with sections unplugging, possible voltage drops at every screw/plug- socket connection, etc. Just doesn't seem worth the trouble or expense to g et any decent length of cord. You might as well just go buy one.

I have in fact made short ones, like the one I have behind my recliner for the times my iPad or phone needs to be charged while I'm sitting there, or for Christmas decorations, etc. They are typically decent cords, so as long as you buy quality socket ends, you'll end up with a decent extension cord .

Other uses include replacement cords for appliances and suicide cables for the workshop. I am not recommending that you make or use a suicide cable, I 'm just saying that old computer cords make good ones.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

The big problem with these cords is the wire size. Most are 18ga and

16ga at best. BTW blue is the neutral and brown is the hot on European cord sets.
Reply to
gfretwell

Not sure if cheaper, but easier way is use an adapters to convert the IEC plug to a std 3 prong female socket (NEMA5-15R)

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Reply to
Retired

Yes, in view of the cost and labor of installing a female plug, it seems more sensible to buy a 25-foot 16-gauge extension cord than to make a

6-foot cord of similar gauge.

I've always found 100-foot cords a hassle. It would be easier to work with 25- or 50-foot cords and connect them when necessary. It would also be cheaper to replace a shorter cord in case of damaged insulation. There used to be clamps to latch connections together. I haven't seen any lately.

Reply to
J Burns

Easier? Discard them and buy purpose made extension cords.

If you really don't want to wire a NEMA 5-15 connector to the wire, you can remove the female IEC 320 connector and use the remaining wire as a replacement cordset for power tools, appliances and lighting fixtures.

Note that computer power cords use AWG18 conductors with an ampacity of 7 (about 800 watts at 120VAC).

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

It would make sense to use it if there was a simple low cost adapter to convert them. I've probably got a half dozen wasting space too.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

It's typically not worth the effort. You end up with a cheap, light-gauge (low ampacity), short cord.

I have some longer (12-15 ft) 14AWG "modular power cords" that are plugged in, permanently, in my office. They are handy when I need to connect some piece of kit with a modular power inlet.

When faced with something with a genuine *plug* on the end (e.g., a wall wart for something), I slip an adapter onto the cord that terminates in a regular nema socket. In this way, getting the benefit of a "universal" extension cord.

Reply to
Don Y

Correct. The cord cannot handle the current of an A/C

Just go to the H/W store and purchase a new one meant to handle the current.

Reply to
philo

I've seen some folks put a junction box and socket on. Then you get two sockets.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

When I read the post, he wanted Alternating/ Current cords. If someone wants to make Air/ Conditioner extensions (700 watts or more) out of a computer cord (probably 100 watts), that is not advisable.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Yes - buy an extention cord. Generally cheaper than a "good" cord end.

Reply to
clare

Big problem is they are "generally" very light duty. Almost every one I have around right now is only 18 guage -good for something between

2.3 and 7 amps, more or less, depending on length. Not much good as a "general purpose" extention cord.
Reply to
clare

Agree. Even the ones that seem thick are actually 18AWG, sometimes 16 but very rarely 14. I went looking for a 14AWG cord and found only one in a box of dozens. IIRC it came from an AST Turbo Laser that dimmed the lights when it booted up. (-:

For short, low wattage work I've bought adapters that have a male "D" plug connected to a regular 110VAC outlet format. That turns it into a grounded

6 to 12' extension cord. Problem is, unless you shop for the lowest price adapters, they end up being as costly as buying a new extension cord. Same with putting a 110VAC plug on the cord. Those connectors cost $2 or more each. Others may disagree, but I prefer a molded plug to a retrofitted one.

If you can find the "D" adapters cheap, they work out well. I like to use them for wiring a stereo stack because you can label them for easy breakdown/reconfiguration and bundle the cord that comes with the equipment up so that you can unplug nearly in place instead of down at the power strip. Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at the plug end just to be sure.

I also use 1' mini-extension cords for things like plugging six "wall warts" into a powerstrip. The short extensions eliminate the problem with power adapters that cover one or more of the adjacent outlets. I use velcro to keep the power adapters attached to the piece of scrap shelving that I attached the power strip to so that it's a little neater. They really make a difference if you've got a lot of wall-warts (like my charging station that now has a record 37 chargers of different types. Really, chargers for cell phones, garden equipment, tools, batteries, shavers, kitchen gear, laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable vacs, cameras, etc.) I, for one, am glad that the EU led the way in forcing phone makers (at least) to standardize on the USB charging plug. I bought a universal solar charger for cell phones that came with 21 different adapters!!!!!!

Reply to
Robert Green

Did the OP mean A/C for air conditioner or alternating current? Now I am not sure. If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to cause arcing).

Reply to
Robert Green

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I used to get them for a little over $1 at (the now apparently deceased) Computergate. The cheapest I could find now is $2.99 which makes it sort of economically impractical to use them to create low amperage 110VA cords. For a buck it made sense - for $3 or $5, get a new cord.

Reply to
Robert Green

What you should do is buy enough cordless computers to use up all your cords.

Reply to
micky

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+1 Good find. The Newegg unit is cheaper than any other places I've found. They're only $2 for 10 and offer $2 shipping (I think). At those prices, using the adapters makes sense for at least low wattage applications. Now that I've retired all my desktop PC's and peripherals, I've got quite a few D cords so I think I'll order some from Newegg. Thanks!
Reply to
Robert Green

"A/C" and "A.C" were used in the original post. Given the context of the comment, it seemed obvious that A/C and A.C were both intended to be "A.C." or "AC"

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

Reply to
Don Y

I bought a cheap P-touch label maker for that. The labels are "printed" on ~1/2 wide vinyl (?) tape. I lay the label *along* the cord (power cord, CAT5 cable, etc.). The 1/2" height of the label is not enough to make it's way all the way around the cable (just *barely* makes it around a CAT5 patch cord) so would easily fall off or be peeled off when pulling cables.

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label to effectively protect and secure the label.

This part of the cable is then slightly less flexible but not badly.

These folks make a nice outlet strip for wall warts: but it is insanely expensive!

Lowe's has some that are suitable but, in my case, a bit too long. As most of the guts were of molded plastic, I couldn't even cut it down to size!

I've resigned myself to fabricating something. One of my workstations has more than a dozen wall warts and I'd like to be able to switch them individually on/off without having to unplug (or, unplug).

Thankfully (?), many of my devices use enough power to warrant *bricks* instead of wall warts.

Reply to
Don Y

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