Reusing computer A/C cords?

[bob_villa]

You're claiming you can power 2 toasters with that cord? It sounds like he just wants to modify it for an ordinary common use extension. "...and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug."

[Don Y]

Yes. Or, two hair dryers, etc. (the computer draws 2200W)

Agreed.

[philo]

Even if he did not mean the cords for use with an air conditioner

it would still not be advisable to use spliced cords...

[Tony Hwang]

If you want to have fire. Computer AC cord are very light gauge. Won't handle the current a/c unit requires.

[FromTheRafters]

I put a rocker switch on some to use with table lamps. The switches on the bulb sockets are harder to reach as the lamps get older.

[bob_villa]

...not sure how that happens...sure it's not you getting older? ? ????????-? ?

[Robert Green]

I bought a few when they were selling as refurbs for less that $20 for the full keyboard model that connects to a PC. I guess it's like King Gillette: give away the razors to sell the blades (or in this case, blank label tape).

I've discovered that trick too because without it the labels flex off after a period of time. Dymo makes a tape with a very aggressive glue but it's very expensive and hard to remove when you want to. The clear tape overlay makes removing old labels easy.

Check out a similar item at Harbor Freight. About $20 for a 4 foot black anodized strip with 12 outlets.

That gets to be expensive. I have an old power strip that has individually switched outlets I got at a thrift store for a few bucks but that probably cost well over $100 when new.

It used to be that bricks came with removable D cords to make replacing them somewhat easier but I haven't seen one like that in a while. Must be a cost thing.

[Robert Green]

Obvious to you! (-: Not me.

I hope you're not talking a PC that draws 2200W. That's a lot of juice.

[DerbyDad03]

re: "(like my charging station that now has a record 37 chargers of different types. Really, chargers for cell phones, garden equipment, tools , batteries, shavers, kitchen gear, laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable vacs, cameras, etc.)"

I am trying to get a visual handle on this. You have a single charging stat ion for all of your chargeable devices? Are you charging your weed wacker i n the bathroom with the shaver or charging the shaver in the garage with th e weed wacker? I jest (somewhat) but only because I'm confused.

I charge my cell phone on the nightstand, I charge my cordless tools in the garage or shop, I charge my garden tools in the shed, etc. Are you really charging all of your devices in one location? Just curious.

[Don Y]

Cool! I just bought one of the el cheapo's when Costco had them on sale. I did so because I had "rescued" several new "ribbon" cartridges; I figured I could afford to throw the whole thing in the trash when I ran out! :>

Exactly. (I always use toilet paper dispenser in place of your "razors" example)

The packing tape will also start to come loose (at the edge) over time. But, so far, hasn't come *off*.

I have a much larger labeler (Kroy K2000): that prints on heat-shrink tubing. A better solution -- but impractical for cables with "connectors" already on both ends!

Really? I'll have to look. Getting strips with the outlets "facing" the right direction is a chore. The Lowe's strip (below) has everything "just right"... but, it's too long (I need something around 2.5-3'). When I disassembled it to try to just "elide" one outlet, I was disappointed to find that it was essentially one large assembly wrapped in a metal case. :<

If I can get the mechanical aspects (i.e., a case that I can mount singleton receptacles in), then the rest of the components are essentially free -- pick them from my parts bins. But, the case the right length and outlet orientation is the pisser.

All of my bricks (save one that I found for the P-Touch unit) have removable power cords. I have cords in various lengths: 1', 3', 5-6', 12', etc. So, I arrange to use the shortest cord possible (to keep the amount of "cord clutter" down to a minimum).

I have a few bricks with Mickey's. Unfortunately, all of those cords are the same length (apparently?).

[Don Y]

It's a computer. PC has a very specific connotation.

A wee bit bigger, heavier, NOISIER and more capable than most "PC's" :>

[Ralph Mowery]

Looks like that unit is designed for 240 volt operation so it only needs about 10 amps. That makes the wiring size less than it would for 120 volt operation.

[Scott Lurndal]

It's also not using AWG18 cordsets.

[KenK]

"Robert Green" wrote in news:ms86q0$32j$ [e-mail]:

Alernating current. Sorry for the ambiguity.

[Don Y]

Not all modular cordsets are 18AWG. *Or*, 110VAC! :>

[Don Y]

Yes. I think the cords are rated at 16A.

I plug it in place of the electric clothes dryer when I need to use it. Moving it is a bit of a chore (200+ pounds) so I try to make sure I *really* need it before doing so! :-/

[And, SWMBO complains vociferously of all the *noise* it makes -- along with the heat it throws off!]

[FromTheRafters]

bob_villa formulated the question :

Absolutely! It couldn't *possibly* be that. :)

[Jeff Wisnia]

The common thing that seems to be done nowadays is to tie the two ends of the cords with a half hitch before connecting the plug and socket.

Jeff

[Robert Green]

of the cords with a half hitch before connecting the plug and socket.

While I realize you're not condoning the practice, I've done that in the past but now I use "clamps" designed to keep long cords coupled. The reason? Tying the extension cords in a half-hitch causes the cords to bend

180 degrees where the wire exits either the plug of one cord or the socket of the mating one. I've had the insulation break from the stress and reveal the invidual wires.

Since then, I use a barrel-shaped enclosed connector for the cord in the driveway that occasionally gets run over. It also *tends* to reduce water reaching the two couple cords.

But there are lots of other designs.

In a pinch where I might be up on the roof and DEFINITELY don't want a disconnection while up there, I might still half-hitch cords together. (-:

[Robert Green]

I think Fry's was perpetually selling refurbed label makers and I realized that if I had them strategically placed in the house I would be tempted to use them more often. The problem now is that I have to keep using larger and larger fonts as my eyes get older.

The ones I bought all do heat shrink tubing which I haven't used once because as you note, they only work on cables that aren't "ended" already. Still, it *would* be a good way to mark a new run of cabling. Instead I have a silver, gold, black and other colored Sharpies that I use. While not as neat and legible as Dymo labels, they do the job.

That's going to be a problem with the H-freight ones, too. What do you mean by the outlets facing the right way? Ground hole to the left instead of the bottom?

Haven't disassembled one to see (and before my wife made me swear to stop wrecking things for internet posts ) but I have taken apart others and agree that there aren't discrete components but an assembly. Just took apart an Eveready UPS (rebadge APC) and found exactly that - outlet blades just soldered together and fit into an elaborate plastic shell that's part of the case.

Good luck with that!

I just recently started to see non-removable cords on the bricks from new stuff coming from China. I guess it saves a penny or so but it does make them less convenient.

I assume Mickey's are the figure 8 cords used to power things like laptops with a ground wire that give a head to the two ears. I see very few of those - mostly laptops. I do see a lot more of them in both polarized and unpolarized format.