FWIW, I have the same saw, and have found the cut quality on the supplied blade is actually pretty decent. I have not bothered replacing it with anything else as yet...
You might want a finer pitch if doing lots of cross cuts in real wood, but for ply or MDF it is less of an issue.
(I did buy a multimaterial blade for it, so I could cut steel as well, but for timber the stock blade is pretty good)
Even with a ripping blade, you can get a decent cut if you do a very shallow scoring pass first:
Thanks for the advice Alan, that's probably saved some material from waste.
That's something I'll be sure to practice, thanks.
That's a clear case of experience making savings on expense.
Just this moment put that to the test with some cheap laminate - worked a treat!
Probably worth keeping in mind expectations as well though... normally I am not using a handheld saw for cabinet making class work - preferring fixed tools like my table saw or big Makita sliding compound mitre saw (which does have a high tooth count blade on it).
So the 18V saw comes out for construction type work (or taking to Wickes etc to make sure stuff I have just bought will go in the car!)
I have made a sawboard for it though...
In some cases you can take it even further by doing your scoring cut backwards (i.e. pulling the saw towards you)
(can also be used for full depth cuts when using a masonry cutting blade and you need a chip free edge)
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