Facemount fence panels to fronts of posts?

Depends on the panels, but some don't have very thick uprights because they're designed to spread the pressure across the whole of the groove in a concrete post. If you screw you apply pressure at a number of fixed points which the uprights may not be able to hold. The closeboard panels I have have uprights about 1" square which I doubt would hold point loadings in a storm.

OTOH it might be ok if the upright were reinforced.

Theo

How about using concrete spurs set back with the posts slightly overlapping the pavement? That would look "normal" and might last a lot longer than burying wooden posts. John

Using panels is not the only way to create a fence. Using arris rails means you can space the posts where most convenient and then simply clad the framework with feather edge boards

You haven't said how you plan to fix the concrete gravel boards to the front of the posts. Also be aware that most 6' concrete gravel boards are actually 6' (1829mm) long whereas many "6'" panels are only 1800mm wide.

It may not look too good butting up something like feather edge panels. There would be a missing overlapping feather edge plank at the join. Other styles of panels may look better. Joins could be disguised by putting a flat plank over the join and from the front it could look like the panels are between posts.

Is the ground level over the whole 29 foot length. If not, plan where the steps in height need to be.

Rather than panels construct the posts and rails and then attach individual planks to them. A suitable nail gun could come in handy.

In my experience modern treated wooden posts from the sheds don't last that long. They will rot at the ground to air transition. Options: Use concrete posts If wood bring the concrete/postcrete above the ground level and slope it away from the post If wood perhaps a tar type sleeve around the post spanning the ground air barrier. Perhaps a dipping the bottom of the post in tar to above the boundary

Put caps on the top of wooden posts to help prevent water getting into the end grain, or at least angle the top of posts to shed water.

Many panels don't have uprights at the edges.

Wood gravel boards? Often regarded as sacrificial because in contact with often wet soil they are likely to rot, but protect the bottom of fence planks/panels.

Finished results

What's wrong with slotted concrete posts concreted into place, concrete gravel boards and treated wooden panels dropped in. Long lasting and by far the best IMO, if a little more expensive.

In the OP's case that would result in the fence being further back than he would like.

Also be aware that imperial sized concrete gravel boards and metric sized panels don't make good bedfellows! I know from first-hand experience.

I don't know about the OP's exact situation, but in my case, with a fence alongside a paved, public, footpath, I'd just dig post holes right up to the paving, dig out from the side of the hole, under the paving and concrete the post in right against the paving.

I'm sure that when putting a fence or wall between gardens, its quite normal to be right up to the boundary line, with the concrete footings crossing over.

A quick Google found "If your fencing needs any type of footing to secure it, the footing is allowed to be partly beneath your neighbour’s land. According to the Party Wall etc. Act 1996, this does not constitute encroachment."

And use the panels that cost £100 per panel because they are made of far thicker spars and look like the overlapped arrangement you get with 3 metre arris rails and concrete posts.

That's a great idea!

I guess it wouldn't be the prettiest thing in the world but it would be OK. I also quite like the modular idea of it allowing the wooden posts to be replaced later without digging.

I've ordered the parts for the fence including 3"-square concrete spurs. I was slightly surprised to be told that they are only just under 1m in length. With, say, 2' in the ground there would not be much left over to which to attach the posts. But I'll see what they are like (and where they have their holes) when they get here.

Wow, £100 per panel? I'm going for nearly the cheapest fence possible so have ordered panels which are £29 each and I still think that is too much. :-(

Yes, I would rather use wooden gravel boards, and that's what I've ordered. I have a slight reservation about them because the tarmac of the pavement hasn't been installed very well. With no hardcore layer underneath it to support it the tarmac was just slopped into place by the council and the edge of the tarmac is gradually sliding down into the garden. :-o

At the moment, I'm not exactly sure how I'll handle the problem. The choices are essentially to put a gravel board below the level of the pavement to try to support the tarmac a little or to place the gravel boards 'on' (i.e. just above) the edge of the tarmac. Even that's made more complicated in that the tarmac has a slight slope. :-(

I'll see how feasible either option looks when the boards arrive and I can try them in place.

Be aware that much of the cheapo stuff is dip treated (ie painted brown, lazily) not pressure treated. So the fence won't last very long when exposed to rain, UV, insects... you'd have to constantly paint it to keep it in good order.

I paid about £50 per panel for decent pressure treated:

Theo

I doubt if any farmer uses fence panels like that :)

Farmers live in farmhouses, and some of them can be quite posh. Also they're useful for 'front of house' purposes, eg around the car parking for the farm shop, or the holiday cottages, or whatever.

I went to their yard and they had a big stack of them, so they must be a decent seller.

Theo

Your £29 panels will rot away within 7 years.

The £100 ones will last closer to 30 because they are made of far thicker and stronger wood, especially if you use

Buy cheap, buy twice.