I think you'll find the US EPA got there first.
You can try looking it up if you don't believe me.
Although like yourself and all right thinking Englishman I can't see what right any Johnny Foreigners has of depriving our kids and grandchildren of their fair share of good old fashioned pollution from the mowers and strimmers which are often buzzing away when they go to the park.
max
I'm not sure you mentioned the size of wood being cut before now?
So not the way you might normally cut though 'a trunk' using the bumper spikes / dogs as a lever?
If the trunks were in a 'V' or up against something in your frame that might resist the more cylindrical ones rolling back then it might work (to be safer than a hand held saw doing the same).
As long as you aren't putting any extra strain on the cheaper saw (that a more 'industrial saw might deal with better) then no, I can't see any reason why it wouldn't do what you want, especially if the 'day or two's worth aren't 8 hours continuous use (as the cheaper saws might not be rated for that (as has been mentioned elsewhere)).
Cheers, T i m
y it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively a ccurately.
nd spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the ground, if worse f or your back.
tree trunks any day soon, no matter how much it tries.
The first one is a couple of tonnes. Others will be all sorts of sizes, mos tly smaller.
hes off it. The resulting restraint of the saw must make it much safer I'd think.
they can't roll back.
doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.
Well, it will be 8 hours straight, less a lunch break. Maybe a cheap Titan won't be upto that then.
NT
So not the full timber lorry and trailer daughters ex ordered specifically to turn into firewood then? ;-)
Ok. Unless also held or held down, the small bits tend to jump about a bit.
Or roll (spin), I've seen both happen. You obviously know your idea for this frame so ...
I don't think anything 'new / cheap' will have a duty cycle up to that sort of use, especially electric with motors not rated for 'continuous use'. ;-(
That said, I can't see any mention of how it should be used but I might have missed it (re continuous use / use duration, it covers everything else though!). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
There are plenty of "chainsaw mill" type attachments that allow you to use one for producing accurate planks and slices etc.
You may need to get it some decent quality chains (and a set of files for sharpening)
Saws designed for climbing are usually small light "top handled" designs, rather than the traditional layout with a top and rear handle. They tend to be fairly specialist and aimed at the pro arb market. (some dealers are also reluctant to sell them to people who can't produce the relevant training certificate for them). I am not sure I would fancy climbing with a normal electric saw.
There's no need. As with everythng else you might need at the top of a ladder you tie a rope around it and just take the rope(s) up with you and pull them up afterwards. Small stuff in a bucket etc. All of which can also have loops to hang it from branches or hooks
The beauty of small battery drills which fit in a pocket is that its possible to screw in as many hooks as you think you might need rather than rely on branches to hang stuff from.
michael adams
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Not sure that was the point John was making.
If you read the manual for that type of saw:
"CHAIN SAW 2000W TTB355CHN6. ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR CHAIN SAW.
d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree. Operation of a chain saw while up in a tree may result in personal injury."
Not really advised to drill holes in live trees or work from a ladder (especially if the ladder isn't roped in etc). They don't often 'spike' up a tree that they aren't going to cut down for the same reason (risk of infection to the tree etc).
Cheers, T i m
So where was John climbing then ?
michael adams
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d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree.
It also says (p 14)
" Wearing thick protective gloves, drape the chain over the guide bar ensuring the direction(A) of travel is as marked on the guide bar and it is fully engaged in the guide bar sprocket.(see Fig. 6 & 7)"
As a matter of interest and just to be sure we're both singing from the same song-sheet here, in your personal experience do you find it necessary to wear thick protective gloves when fitting a chain on your chainsaw ?
Speaking only for myself if somebody can't handle a saw chain without cutting their hands to ribbons then they maybe shouldn't be allowed near chainsaws in the first place. Assuming they can ever get the thing on in the first place, wearing these "thick protective gloves".
So what do you think ?
michael adams
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I'm not sure John was but he just suggested he wouldn't want to with that type of (two handed) saw but NT (the OP) did suggested he may have need to use it up a tree.
"Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work."
Cheers, T i m
vs-reality-54169.html
but that?s just another "i read it on the internet" do you really think that Stihl one of the largest makers of 2T engines would advise using 25:1 in place of 50:1 if it would cause damage? The theory is fine but in real life it makes ?almost? no difference to the mixture at all, I have tested this on a Dyno with a villiers starmaker engine, cyl head temp/spark plug temp and plug colour.
2T Lubrication is marginal at the best of time this from your link is proven fact based and not EU eco emissions 50:1 bollocks?All the major manufacturers produce two-stroke racing engines in their off- road motorcycles. Virtually all of them recommended 20:1 or 24:1 mix ratios.
?3. A second test they performed was to run synthetic in two identical engines and one was run at 24:1, the other was run at 50:1 The engine that ran 24:1 had less piston skirt wear, and less rod bearing wear, but had the same main roller bearing wear as the engine run at 50:1.
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Have I *always*? No. Do I normally, yes.
I guess it all depends on how sharp the chain is and what you are doing with it.
Daughter repaired a garden saw for someone and sharpened it whilst she was there. Whilst doing so she noticed a broken tooth and so when handing it back to the customer, took the scabbard off and went to rotate the chain to show him the broken tooth. She slipped slightly and took a nasty chunk out of the back of one of her fingers that took ages to heal. All the other times she was working on the saw she was wearing gloves of course and hasn't hurt herself like that previously AFAIK. ;-(
;-)
Well, I would go as far as to say 'thick' gloves were an ideal choice (as you say, exactly what are you doing with the thing) but I generally wear some sort of glove when working on any engines or other hot / greasy things, simply to save my hands getting covered in grease, cut, pinched or burned (or getting dermatitis). Even some thinish gloves can save quite a bit of damage to skin.
When not dealing with something specifically nasty I wear gloves that have a reasonably thin rubber grip (but thicker than those surgical type gloves that I usually tear putting on) that have cotton backs that stop your hands getting all sweaty.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. When she was taking her CS-30 the examiner asked one of the other students if he was happy he had finished re-assembling the saw and that it was ready for inspection. The student replied 'yes'. He asked again, if he was sure and again, 'yes'. He then failed him because he had put the chain on back_to_front. ;-(
But according to the instructions you just quoted, John shouldn't have ever contemplated climbing anywhere with any type of chainsaw should he ?
Given that the only place anyone would ever want to climb with a chainsaw, is presumably a tree. And given that you haven't come up with any alternative to trees as a likely destination.
As for myself, being someone who takes many instructions for the arse covering baloney they actually are, I took John to be implying that were he to find it necessary to climb with a chainsaw, a less cumbersome model would be preferable. I was merely pointing out that this needn't necessarily be an obstacle.
Your observation concerning the portentially deletarious effects on live trees of a few cuphooks has been noted BTW. You may console yourself with the fact that not being made of cuphooks, they're unscrewed once they've served their purpose, ready for next time; and most likely the holes heal up.
michael adams
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Versus?
No. Just to be sure here, they advise the use of 25:1 when not using their oil.
Ok.
Ok?
Tell that to an MZ I had, passed to a mate and got back some years later with another 100,000 km's on the clock and still pulled like a train. I must have had a whole range of 2/ oil in it over the years but because it was autolube, didn't rely on tank mixed oil. Not to say that it would have been any different if it had just been fed tank mixed oil but not being a 'high performance' or a 'racing' machine it probably wouldn't have been that sensitive.
However, a saw that is often running flat out might be able to cope with 'anyone's' 2/ oil at 25:1 but can get away with a higher ratio (less viscous fuel/ oil mix, so would have less impact on the fuel / air ratio other than making it slightly *richer*) as the lubrication would supposedly be to a higher standard.
The issue isn't the actual ratio, it's the ratio when used on a specific machine and it's designed roll.
Yup? So, what ratio was it designed to run on, 24:1 I hope?
Cheers, T i m
p.s. It's funny that Stihls '4-Mix' generation of engines have valves and run as a 4/ but still use fuel / oil mix for lubrication (saves having a wet sump). Worst of all worlds?
Erm no, that's not what I was saying. I was agreeing with him that when lopping and pruning whilst climbing (in a tree) they normally use a 'top handle' saw (not the type of saw suggested by the OP).
A more 'appropriate' design of model, yes.
No, quite. If you a chogging down a big tree you need a big (two handled) saw but that's a different kettle of fish and procedure.
Ok.
'Most likely?' I'm not sure the local Tree Inspector would accept your 'hopes' on a 500 year oak with a TPO on it? ;-) Oh, and the last thing anyone would want sticking out of a tree they were climbing in would be any sort of 'hook' (for all sorts of reasons).
Even when climbing in a live tree (you don't want to damage) you try to use 'cambium savers' on your main climbing ropes. Not that everyone does of course and I think it depends on the tree, how often it might be climbed, what the goals are and who is doing it (eg, if they care or not).
Cheers, T i m
Not really what I was talking about... I was more thinking of using the saw at height, where you may need to use the saw safely one handed. You can do that with a top handle saw, but not a normal layout one.
(tree climbers will normally have the saw on a lanyard anyway, so they can climb freely and pull the saw up to use when they need it, and simply "drop" it when they are done).
For the avoidance of doubt, I was suggesting that using a two handled saw which also has a trailing flex, while elevated was not something I personally would want to do. Since the flex alone would be a right PITA and a risk of entanglement, and a saw that you can only use safely two handed is not ideal if you lack a third arm to steady yourself.
Or a ladder...
I have used a chainsaw for chopping through rafters in a roof, lifting joists from a plasterboard ceiling, and sectioning and removing a beam embedded in a masonry wall.
Indeed, see above.
You can perhaps appreciate that if someone get a pro in to prune a tree, its worth their while not engaging in any practices that will endanger the tree and expose themselves to future claims.
I did that on a pole / pruner saw the other day - took the bar off to clean out the gunk and see if I could improve the oiling. Reassembled, and then though this does not seem to be cutting at all well ;-)
The do cut so much better when you drive them in the right direction!
I'll try & remember that :)
NT
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