I need to replace it - but how to get it off? Stilsons won't fit in the lim ited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong way r ound. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to rip t he copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonna be m essy.
I did ours recently with two pairs of what they call waterpump pliers (hence the name, I suppose) - nothing else I had was big enough. I would suggest making sure you have replacement washers - the old ones may fall apart having been crushed for so long. Also, I was unable to completely stop the valves from dripping - it might help if you have a big tray and some towels handy :-)
Sounds like the person fitting it thought "great, just enough space to get the stilsons in to tighten it up" leaving the problem of removing it to someone else much later on!
I have used a chain or strap wrench in the past. They can be bastards, and are often installed somewhat inaccessibly. As GB says, cut and shut may be your last resort.
imited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong way round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to rip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I g ot the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonna be messy.
Maybe it depends on the type of pump but mine (Grundfos) can be changed by undoing the 4 screws holding the main part of the pump onto the base chambe r. That way you don't need to loosen those large nuts. Just do the same wit h the new pump and fit it to the old in situ base. Edgar
limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong w ay round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to r ip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonna be messy.
y undoing the 4 screws holding the main part of the pump onto the base cham ber. That way you don't need to loosen those large nuts. Just do the same w ith the new pump and fit it to the old in situ base.
PS. If you do take the pump off this way it might be possible to get a better h old of the pipe nuts and take off the housing too. It is really a good idea to replace those washers if you can. E
limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong w ay round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to r ip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonna be messy.
y undoing the 4 screws holding the main part of the pump onto the base cham ber. That way you don't need to loosen those large nuts. Just do the same w ith the new pump and fit it to the old in situ base.
Ah, I'm liking that one. The 2 pumps are identical so it's possible. But ha ving undone the bolts on the replacement one, it still won't come apart. A good smack with a rubber mallet has been unpersuasive.
limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong w ay round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to r ip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonna be messy.
My water pump pliers, plural, are not quite big enough. Great for lots of j obs, but not water pumps it seems.
he limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong way round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to rip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonn a be messy.
by undoing the 4 screws holding the main part of the pump onto the base ch amber. That way you don't need to loosen those large nuts. Just do the same with the new pump and fit it to the old in situ base.
having undone the bolts on the replacement one, it still won't come apart. A good smack with a rubber mallet has been unpersuasive.
Oh well! Mine came apart easily - just a bit of a pry. Both the old and the new. E
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com has brought this to us :
Have you tried heat from a blow-lamp on the nuts, to expand them enough to crack the seal?
Rather than cut the pipes, could you not desolder - drain down and get enough heat onto the pipe, so it slide out of the socket at each end - then undo the nuts on the bench where it is easy.
Yes. I've only replaced one - but the nuts were so corroded on, they had to be cut off. So getting all the bits in to do the job if you do have to cut the pipe makes sense. Even if it had come off, I'd not have re-used the nuts due to thread damage. Probably a brass to iron thing.
That pump had run happily for over 20 years. When I came to replace the boiler - the new one had an internal pump - that replacement came off easily.
I can't for the life of me remember if I fitted the original. Installing the heating here was a joint operation with a pal, who was a qualified plumber. I do remember doing all the wring, though.
he limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong way round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to rip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonn a be messy.
d by undoing the 4 screws holding the main part of the pump onto the base c hamber. That way you don't need to loosen those large nuts. Just do the sam e with the new pump and fit it to the old in situ base.
t having undone the bolts on the replacement one, it still won't come apart . A good smack with a rubber mallet has been unpersuasive.
That's how they are. Maybe not a rubber mallet. Or try a pry at the joint. Undo the old one first. Once it's out there should be space to sort out fit ting the new one. That way you only chance what's already scrap. E
My pump connects using flat faces and fibre washers. I always use copperslip where any threads might seize and never had an issue with seized parts where I have.
Same here ,Knipex Cobra XXl with a locking button so they don't suddenly slip and handles designed that they won't trap fingers. max pipe diameter 115mm . Purchased them in Germany while I was out there doing a job. ICBW but I think the equivalent of VAT on tools was cheaper than here at the time and there was a considerable saving and when I purchased them in 2005 I think they worked out about £29-£35 ish from an engineering orientated tool shop in Bremerhaven. Nearer the £70 mark now.
Don't use them that often but on occasions they have been a useful no messing about tickling the job tool to have.
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