limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong w ay round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to r ip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonna be messy.
Clearly a job for the angle grinder.
he limited space round one of the nuts, and won't grip adequately the wrong way round. Also the amount of force needed on the nuts is surely liable to rip the copper pipe apart. At least one point I'went ok, with enough force I got the 2 valves to turn, and hopefully close. If they haven't it's gonn a be messy.
by undoing the 4 screws holding the main part of the pump onto the base ch amber. That way you don't need to loosen those large nuts. Just do the same with the new pump and fit it to the old in situ base.
having undone the bolts on the replacement one, it still won't come apart. A good smack with a rubber mallet has been unpersuasive.
OK the job is done. Enough smacking eventually got the old pump to split. T he impellor was clogged solid with debris, 15 minutes later it was cleared out & reassembled. So I've got a spare pump.
But this hasn't solved the main problem. I'll start a new boiler thread for it. Thanks everyone!
NT
A good raincoat and a plastic inflatable paddling pool on the floor perhaps? Brian
BTDTGTTS.
Don't use fibre washers, they bond rather too well to the flanges and let by just enough damp to rust the iron and rust occupies (or tries to) more space than iron thus jamming the valve nuts.
You can get "rubber" ones fit witha a smear of "rubber" safe grease, they seal well but don't bond. The valves ought to be full bore 1/4 turn ball type rather than gate. Unless you fully close and open a gate valve few times at least once a year it will never shut off completely. When leaving "fully open" close it 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to stop it jamming open.
I do like the idea of just swapping the motor/impellor assembly.
To check if the valves are fully off, loosen the air vent on the pump (provided it's not at the back where you cann't get at it!) and see if the water stops coming out (obviously put something to catch it) if so they are turned off, if not you'll have to drain the system and replace them.
One of the tips that I learnt from the company that supplied the parts for me to fit my central heating system in 1976 was not to use an integral valve and fitting for the pump but to have the valves at least 3 inches above and below the fitting for the pump so that 15 years later when the pump needed replacing I could saw through the pipes and then replace with new lengths of pipe with new pump fittings. It also made it easy when the size of pumps changed.
Alan
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.