Wiki: Pipe repair

NT

'''How to repair a leaking pipe''' - a beginner's guide

The homeowner decided to install a fountain by wacking a [[nail]] through a [[floor]]board and into a [[pipe]].

Parts & [[tools]] - a couple of fairly big [[screwdriver]]s were also used as levers to move the [[pipe]] a tiny bit so the [[nut]] could turn.

You should be able to do it without spare olives, but I've had enough incidences of needing a new olive to always take spares.

Mark where to cut the [[pipe]]. Usually a rotating wheel type pipe cutter woud be used, but here there was no space for one. An oscillating [[saw]] was used. A hack[[saw]] is also possible, but avoid putting force on the pipe by twisting it, you don't want the soft copper to distort.

Olives won't fit onto a sawn [[pipe]] end, so the pipe ends were filed to remove any external burr. This required getting the file in at a few odd angles.

Slide [[nut]] then olive on

Add linseed [[putty]].

Some people think you should never use gloop with [[compression fitting]]s because they were designed to be used dry. Choice is yours, fwiw I find they're more reliable on used pipes with putty.

Tighten each [[nut]]; the 2nd [[wrench]] stops the new plumbing rotating. I removed a 2nd [[floor]]board to get enough [[tool]] access. I also cut a quarter inch off the side of one of the [[wood]]en joist notches so the new pipe could move very slightly to enable everything to line up & the nut to turn.

Job done!

This was a [[heating]] system pipe. So refill & repressurise heating according to [[boiler]] instructions. Add [[corrosion inhibitor]] ditto.

[[Category:Basics]] [[Category:Plumbing]] [[Category:Domestic Hot Water]] [[Category:Repair]]

You might add that a temporary repair to some holes can be made with a jubilee clip and some soft material (bit of leather/plastic)

You might put something in about identifying what the pipe is for and how to isolate/drain down/minimise water damage.

NT

'''How to repair a leaking pipe''' - a beginner's guide

The homeowner decided to install a fountain by wacking a [[nail]] through a [[floor]]board and into a [[pipe]].

Parts & [[tools]] - a couple of fairly big [[screwdriver]]s were also used as levers to move the [[pipe]] a tiny bit so the [[nut]] could turn.

You should be able to do it without spare olives, but I've had enough incidences of needing a new olive to always take spares.

Mark where to cut the [[pipe]]. Usually a rotating wheel type pipe cutter woud be used, but here there was no space for one. An oscillating [[saw]] was used. A hack[[saw]] is also possible, but avoid putting force on the pipe by twisting it, you don't want the soft copper to distort.

Olives won't fit onto a sawn [[pipe]] end, so the pipe ends were filed to remove any external burr. This required getting the file in at a few odd angles.

Slide [[nut]] then olive on

Add linseed [[putty]].

Some people think you should never use gloop with [[compression fitting]]s because they were designed to be used dry. Choice is yours, fwiw I find they're more reliable on used pipes with putty.

Tighten each [[nut]]; the 2nd [[wrench]] stops the new plumbing rotating. I removed a 2nd [[floor]]board to get enough [[tool]] access. I also cut a quarter inch off the side of one of the [[wood]]en joist notches so the new pipe could move very slightly to enable everything to line up & the nut to turn.

Job done!

This was a [[heating]] system pipe. So refill & repressurise heating according to [[boiler]] instructions. Add [[corrosion inhibitor]] ditto.

[[Category:Basics]] [[Category:Plumbing]] [[Category:Domestic Hot Water]] [[Category:Repair]]

Also maybe something about slip couplings and how to convert a stopped coupling to a slip coupling.

Most of these flexible connectors are not rated for central heating temperatures (and even with 60C hot water, sometimes only 1 or 2 bar).

Sorry, but there's no way we should be advocting using putty in a compression coupling. Explain how to use compression fittings correctly, or if you think that's beyond people, suggest a repair method which is achieveable without bodging (pushfit, maybe).

If you are advising for an easy repair requiring least plumbing skill, using a piece of plastic pipe with pushfit couplers is probably the way to go.

For a more advanced repair, soldering over a piece of patch pipe is better if the hole is one side only. (Pin holes can be sealed with just solder and no patch.)

Needs a warning about inherently leaky (late 1970's) copper pipe which springs leaks where impurities have corroded away in the pipe wall. Often, any attempt to repair causes another hole to open a few inches away, and replacement may be the only option.

Well, at least mention the correct "putty" - eg:

If the joint weeps despite reasonable tightening, a smear of Hawk White (also suitable for potable water) around the olive and retighten.

I had one out of 24 joints recently that needed this treatment. But I only do it if dry assembly has failed.

I would definitely remove the word "putty" as that would be wholly unsuitable.

In fact, you *should* remove all references to "linseed putty" - because that is not approved for potable water anyway.

Correction to my last post:

It should say "Fernox Water Hawk" and not "Hawk White".

The latter is suitable for non potable water and gas.

The former is what I used and is suitable for all water (but not gas) and is WRAS approved.

In message , Andrew Gabriel writes

The pushfit slip couplings eg.

Are very handy when you want a quick and easy repair

That's actually a genius product - never seen it before.

Perhaps worth having a pair in your toolbox for an emergency?

reckon you'd have to tell me first...

NT

just cut out the stop - trivial turning job

Or round file.