Central heating boilers. What make?

Hello This is probably an imposable question to answer, but I'll ask anyway. I will be moving to a house that has no central heating (apart from warm air which I will be taking out). What I was needing to know is, What is a decent make of boiler these days? I was thinking along the lines of Potterton/Ideal/Glow worm? I will be looking for wall hung, condensing, good efficiency. Not Combi, for a 4 bedroom house. vented fully pumped system. Any clue to a good make/model/range to start looking at. I think I would be prepared to spend about £1000 for a good reliable boiler. Regards, Will

Reply to
Willi
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Willi said

Under the sales of goods act I would suggest that any fridge should last 6 years at least. So I would expect the same from boilers. So as a corgi tradesman has to put it in I would buy it off him and blaim him if it goes wrong.

Reply to
zaax

On Tue, 4 Jul 2006 01:09:58 +0100, zaax wrote (in article ):

The Sale of Goods Act does not say that an item should last for 6 years.

There is a statutory period of 6 years (statute of limitations) for recourse to the supplier if there is a problem with goods or services purchased. It does not guarantee in any way that the supplier will do anything about it. For that purpose, if it eventually becomes a court matter, a test of reasonableness will be applied.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Andy Hall said

Recourse to the seller.

I would suggest that it would be reasonable for a professionally installed system to last at six years.

Reply to
zaax

On Tue, 4 Jul 2006 20:08:17 +0100, zaax wrote (in article ):

That would depend on the product installed and the price paid.

If I had paid top whack for a Viessmann boiler, high quality installation and so forth then I would go for every pound of flesh if it came to it. I would be likely to prevail in any litigation because the manufacturer and supplier would have little argument that this wasn't a top of the market purchase However, given that purchasing decision, it is unlikely that the situation would arise, or that there would be enough margin in the deal that the installer and the manufacturer could provide proper customer service.

OTOH, if I buy a Ravenheat and cheapest possible install then I would be less confident of the outcome because a reasonableness test would position the outlay a lot lower.

Another way of looking at it is insurance. In the mid range people do buy insurance,. On a pure cost basis it makes no sense and they will pay way over the odds over the product life. However, if the objective is to avoid dealing with problems and the cost of so doing is high, the economics change.

Personally I find that the best outcome doesn't come from buying on capital price paid but on negotiating the best customer service for the price paid. This roughly translates to not beating down to the lowest price but in response expecting that the supplier does what they say they will do. Then if they don't, the 16 ton weight descends. It is very difficult for a supplier to defend a situation of doing less than they agreed at the outset.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Worcester-Bosch & Vaillant have good reputations for reasonably-priced kit

Gloworm & Ideal may also be OK

Potterton/Baxi have ground to make up on their reputation from past products (and the way they've handled problems with them) so, other things being equal, I'd avoid them.

For general criteria see Ed's boiler choice FAQ

Reply to
John Stumbles

I note that Baxi who swallowed MAIN some while ago are now badging the boiler as MAIN. The product is identical (AFAICT) to a Potterton model. I guess they may eventually run out of reputable names.

Reply to
Ed Sirett

Wrong move. Johnson & Starley have some superb replacement forced air units with electrostatic air filters, modulating burners and fans and very quiet. They also cool by moving air in summer. And no rads. You can also add outside air ventilation too.

Bad boilers.

The condenser is good, made by Vaillant.

.....are you a member of the flat earth society as well?

Spend more. Viessmann, Eco-Hometec, Atmos, Etag, Quantum and Geminox.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Avoid that. It is 20 years out of date.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I will be looking for wall hung, condensing, good efficiency. Not Combi, for a 4 bedroom house. vented fully pumped system.

.....are you a member of the flat earth society as well?

Dr Drivel Can i ask what makes you say that? Are you saying you would rather have a Combi? I will consider all options. (but not warm air, however good they are now). What are the advantages of a Combi? I guess space as a hot water tank is not required, but what are the others? Regards, Will

Reply to
Willi

He hails from the planet Zog where only combis are allowed and the bath hasn't been invented.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

It is not 1972 anymore.

Yep. They can deliver high flows and no cylinders or water tanks.

They are good and you don't consider? Sounds Irish. Oh That is racist, so sounds err, well any race you don't like. Do you wear flared pants as well?

Yep.

No cold tank. Less pipe work. Mains pressure showers, so no silly power shower pump. You never run out hot water. Can stay in the shower for ever. Equal pressure at all taps, so mixers can be easily installed everywhere. Instant hot water at all times. etc, etc,

I am not a jolly amateur. Come back if you have any more queries.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

It's a shame isn't it. Care in the community has failed.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

With regards to this bit "Mains pressure showers, so no silly power shower pump"

How does the system hold up, when someone is having a shower, the heating is on & maybe someone is running the hot tap in the kitchen. This is all hypertheticail of course. I'm just trying to think of the hardest thing the system would have to do (or be asked to do). Or put simply. "Would it cope" ? Regards, Will

Reply to
Willi

The 'high flow' is in relation to other combis. Not in comparison to even the most weedy of storage systems. Unless, of course, you intend spending about 5000 quid on a combi and installation.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Dribble conveniently forgets that many parts of the country have rather poor mains water pressure in an attempt to reduce leaks.

Best thing is to measure the flow at the kitchen tap and ask again. Time how long it takes to fill say a 10 litre container. However, if all water comes from the mains it's not just a second hot tap that will effect the flow, but cold water ones too.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

So what, cold tanks are a useful reserve when some prat floods out the neighbourhood by the misuse of a junior hacksaw.

Not really, in most houses it amounts to a couple of metres of 22mm to the coil, 3 metres of mains pressure 15mm cold feed and about 3 metres of 22mm for the hot tank feed. 30 minutes installation at the most.

As long as you like lukewarm/scalding/freezing/lukewarm repeat ad infinitum showers

Probably because you don't have any in the first place

Some people wish you would

Mixer taps are the spawn of the devil, liked by the French who never use taps (and stink) and the Germans who could make a tap last 1000 years that would be incapable of filling a bath in less than 999 years

Instant lukewarm dribble is more correct.

No, you are a failed plumbing counter assistant who flooded out 3 London boroughs because of a incident with a junior hacksaw.

Reply to
Matt

Firstly, like any mains pressure system, the mains have to give pressure and flow. This needs to be measured but timing bucket fro the kitchen tap, in litres per minute.

If the mains are poor it is well worth getting it replaced to a larger bore. Once done it is done for ever.

A dedicated 22mm pipe is taken from the stoptap to the combi inlet. A tee at the stop and then all cold outlets from this. Once a decent mains pressure and, piped properly then no problems.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Must be bed time for him.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

A shame isn't it. He put high pressure taps in on a low pressure system. Sad isn't it.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

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