Car key fob.

Timpson's did me a new (not repaired) Ford fob for around £20 a couple of years back. OK, it wasn't a "genuine" Ford key but it looked and smelt the same, and worked just as well as the original.

Thanks. That's another option I considered, but jaguar fobs are not commonly duplicated, and are always more expensive and I wanted the 'correct' one. And it looks like everything that wears out has been replaced.

Getting ANYTHING repaired these days is a nightmare. 15 years ago with better eyesight and access to test gear I'd have done it myself, but I simply cannot manage surface mount stuff, either in terms of arthritic paws or eyesight

I bought a microscope to do that, luckily no arthritus (yet).

Most common reason here for a remote to stop working (other than the battery) is the switches. 'Tactile' types, and easily replaced. New cases can be bought for most on Ebay.

But several offer to fix it.

Sadly the chance that ALL the switches would fail simultaneously, as well as the ability to be recognised by the remote ignition switch was so low that I did not consider it likely. It had already been recased.

One of the benefits of having a brain and a degree in electrical engineering is that one can diagnose electrical faults using something a shade better than guesswork.

But since both are terra incognita to you, Dave, you will have to take that on trust.

As I pointed out, that was not the problem. No power was getting to any of it at all. It wouldn't even start the car by proximity..I tried bending the battery connector which is a very common fault, but to no avail. And the switches on this one are real micro switches.

Given fine tipped test probes, an RF detector, desoldering tool , illuminated magnifying setup and a smaller tipped soldering iron than I have..I am sure that I could have fixed it. But the cost of all that would have exceeded marshals most inflated quote.

Yes, I've done that with Citroen C5 and C6 ones, very simple.

Yes, but...new tools!

Beyond the switch, the battery and the plastic case there's not much else to go wrong. All of those parts are available (may have to fish around ebay or Aliexpress for the case).

If you lose it, there may be a procedure to pair a used ebay fob with the car, either via OBD or some other process (google 'toyota chicken dance'). DYOR.

Theo

And it's Christmas! RF detector - SDR USB dongle.

If you loose a Porsche one, I'm told it's £400+ for a replacment. Of course they don't actually make it - it comes from a supplier that does lots of makes. The main cost is likely labour in coding it. Which isn't usually needed again with a broken one.

The case on mine was broken (push button cover). A new case looked identical to the old one, and cost about £20 on Ebay. It came with a new blank blade - but swapping the old one was easy.

What this does tend to show is most car remotes are rather badly made. Nice little earner for the dealer.

Is it true that dealers don't profit from the sale but the aftercare?

My mate's Volvo garage wanted £600 for a software update that merely remapped the ECU to give a smidge extra power. He was dithering so I just asked him how often he felt it necessary to put his foot to the floor. The answer, "Never", saved him £600.

Wonder how many with blood still flowing never floor it?

Heh. He has an XC90, floor one of those and you'll barely make it to the next petrol station :-)

Well yes BUT I tend not to buy tools for once off usage.

When I floored this one it went into limp home mode. Code was 'secondary turbo inlet valve not closing'

Apparently the turbo valve gets sticky if you don't floor it now and again.

I've done it since and its been OK.

When I had to break up an old shed base it was cheaper to buy a cheap, heavy SDS and use it as a breaker than to hire a real one for a day.

I figured if it only lasted for the one job it saved me money.

The job probably took twice as long as it could have - but the SDS is going strong 15 years later!