Car Impact Driver

It will be crap quality. Pay extra for a long term piece of kit.

I've got a DTW300Z used for lug nuts and heras clips, I think it'd be a bit brute-force and ignorance for e.g. ikea assembly, what do you class as heavy duty assembly?

I think most impact wrench settings are in terms of different rpm/ipm rather than specific torque levels, the "fancy" modes are e.g. apply maximum ugga-duggas until a rusty bolt breaks free, then slow down to back it out in a controlled way.

Separately, I'd expect a 1/2" square to 1/4" hex adapter to snap bits just as easily as a 1/4" hex to 1/2" square adapter ...

Andy Burns snipped-for-privacy@andyburns.uk wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

Useful info thx, last 'big' tasks were knocking 10x160 hex head turbo coach screws into big timbers for raised beds and attempting to fix a big wooden wallplate to masonry. The first was _just_ managed by my trusty Hitachi drill driver (with fear of burning out) and the latter had to be finished manually with bit & spanner. Next application prob some framing for an oversize summerhouse. I need these features only very occasionally hence the attraction of the budget (almost free) aquisition once batt/charger is factored in.

They claim 'adjustable' torque 'with memory settings' but a bit vague in the details (as ever). Speed/dugga rate variable via the trigger control. A no quibble 'not suitable' return policy helps the choice if it is not as expected.

Agreed, I'm aware that 400Nm will be well capable of snapping screws/bolts as well so I will be tempering my enthusiasm with a degree of common sense.

On tool durability I trust that one designed for 400Nm will be able to handle basic 200Nm work with little fuss, albeit without much finess.

Parkside/Lidl quality is generally pretty good, maybe not quite up with Bosch professional or DeWalt but quite up to general D-I-Y use.

I would agree, except I have just had my Parkside 20v drill body snap, between handle and motor body, in line with the forward/reverse switch. The plastic, was remarkably thin. I've managed to glue it back together with Gorilla glue, I'll see how long that survives..

It would be good to hear what you get and what you think of it.

I purchased a cheapo impact driver, with 1/2" drive, and while it is very useful it simply isn't man enough to undo nuts and bolts at the claimed torque.

I would love to know how they justify the extreme torque outputs.

What did you have in mind?

The actual continuos torque out of an ID does not need to be that high - it is not driving the screw in the same way a drill driver will. It has a rotary hammer mechanism that will apply many angular "blows" to the driving bit - nudging the rotation round in a sequence of rapid but discrete steps.

(Never used an Parkside ID - but for an 18V tool it aught to be fairly powerful)

An impact wrench will be good for larger nuts and bolts etc. It might be a bit large and cumbersome for more traditional screw driving though - although it will probably work. Part of the attraction of impact drivers is their small size and weight, which combined with the mode of driving makes them easy to use at arms length (since you don't need to put loads of weight on the back of the drill to stop the bit caming out)

John Rumm snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.null wrote in news:v37hi8$16o2q$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

From my reply to Andy Burns:

Last 'big' tasks were knocking 10x160 hex head turbo coach screws into big timbers for raised beds and attempting to fix a big wooden wallplate to masonry. The first was _just_ managed by my trusty Hitachi drill driver (with fear of burning out) and the latter had to be finished manually with bit & spanner. Next application prob some framing for an oversize summerhouse. I need these features only very occasionally hence the attraction of the budget (almost free) aquisition once batt/charger is factored in.

Nah, my Hitachi drill driver will do the little stuff.

Some of the amazon specials are really wimpy, others are a good bargain tool, but seems no sensible way to tell them apart ...

That was an interesting video.

I'd like to know how they took those measurements.

I'll stick to my air tools - effective and (if you already have a compressor) generally much cheaper than electric versions.

I don't think the guy running that channel would disagree.

This video may explain why