Car battery 12.1v

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a replacement battery.

Probably one cell is shorted, so all the others will be getting overcharged and the battery will die completely soon (when you most need it).

John

Do you not know anyone with a battery charger you could borrow for a few hours? Recharging it at least once to see how long it lasts might be worth it. Driving in the dark on headlights for short journeys can take out more from the battery than the alternator is able to put back in.

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.

Several neighbours have had cars that wouldn't start after lockdown ended because they didn't think to put them on charge or allow the engine to run for a while.

It would normally get a decent run often enough, even during lockdown, but in months of late i've had a load of DIY tasks flitting between 3 places all within a couple of miles of each other. Lights, wipers, heated seats etc. It's occurred to me too that i've used it inappropriately.

I had a charger (Lidl smart charger) but it packed in.

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit). Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost to not have that conversation.

Yeah. Having thought about, if my usage pattern stays the same I am going to need a charger so if anyone has any recommendations....

I would think that 'most people' that own a car would also agree you should own things like a foot pump and a battery charger 'anyway', and given how cheap (and compact) a perfectly useable one is from the likes of Aldi / Lidl, and how foolproof they are to use, might be considered one of those things every car / motorcycle owner should have?

I guess if you only have one car, can't get mains anywhere near your car or get the battery out your car (and some are easier than others) or be elderly / non technical then I guess it may not be worth buying a charger if you don't already have one, for yourself now (but others might be able to get you out of trouble with it). [1]

I would also second the advice you have in that if I was to buy a new battery I would still want to put it on a full / overnight charge before fitting it. [2]?

Cheers, T i m

[2] A mate has a fairly sophisticated battery tester that quickly gives capacity, cold cranking amps and internal resistance etc.

Needing a new battery he took said gadget to the local car parts supplier and they presented him with a suitable battery. He tested it in front of them and it fell well below all the marked values. The shop suggested 'it just needed a good charge' but mate wasn't convinced, so left without.

He ordered one online (for a lot less) that he tested on arrival and it was on / above it's marked spec. ;-)

And a battery from the RAC would cost a lot more than one from Tayna etc

I was going to say get a charger and see how it goes. But that last sentance changes things completely, get a new battery. May even be able to hang getting a new charger on that hook "as if I'd had acharger I could have kept the old bettery in better condition". Trouble is the answer to that is "so why didn't you get a charger for £20 instead of wasteing £90 on a new battery that you shouldn't have needed"...

I think it depends if you have the opportunity to keep it hooked up all the time (maintenance charge) or would only be able to run it for a short time in which case you might need something with a higher charge output?

As a compromise, daughters diesel Transit Connect has had a Lidl 'Intelligent charger on it for a good few months now and every time we have tried starting it, it's been on the button.

Personally I'm fond of the Optimate range of chargers (as they don't need a button pressed like the Ctek / clones often do) but they aren't cheap and would really only maintain a big car battery. The highest output one I have is only 4A so potentially not enough if you have a really low battery and a short charging time.

Right. Best get another battery then and hope you can find the reset code for the car radio after making the swap.

I leave my least used car with a solar powered trickle charger plugged into the cigarette lighter. It helps in summer but is useless in winter. Reminds me I ought to give it a top up charge next decent dry day.

I can't help but want one of these,

You what??

I've changed the battery on my car. I might possibly have changed it twice, but I don't think I have.

It was new in 2000.

OTOH it's not stop-start.

Andy

I wouldn't (it's 'Ring').

If you were spending that sort of money I'd get:

I do the same (except connected directly to the battery).

Hmm, I guess how much it could 'help' is a function of the capacity of the panel, it's orientation to the sun and the parasitic drain on the battery?

eg, I can generally leave the kitcar un-started for at least 3 months and it will restart ok. Adding the solar panel means that even a short burst of bright light on any day (or week) will generally offset any losses.

I have to run a mains-lead across the pavement to do that but with the end of the extension lead and charger under the bonnet and some rubber mat over the cable, hasn't been an issue so far.

Cheers, T i m

Which is a strange behaviour of a battery and more likely a bad connection or faulty starter. Especially if more of a "clonk" than a 'click'.

What is the voltage with the engine running. 12.1V is what I would expect when the battery has been rested for a while powering the normal load with the ignition off.

A charger is always worthwhile having in your toolbox.

The voltage of a lead acid isn't a reliable guide. You need to perform a high current test. But if the battery is fully charged and struggles to turn the engine that is a form of high current test - assuming the starter etc is OK.

Look out for the Lidl charger at about £14. It is very good and small to store - it will easily fit the glovebox. It is powerful enough to charge a flat battery overnight, and can also provide a maintenance charge to keep a battery topped up.

Almost certainly the switch. Costs pennies to replace. The far more expensive Ctek it is similar too breaks in the same way - just fixed one.

If you still have it there is a known fault with that charger that is (relatively) easy to repair

I use a cheapish (£40 or so) Optimate bike maintenance charger on my wifes Fiesta "stop-start". Works a treat. It only puts out 0.22A (220mA) max, but that's enough to keep it topped up and keep the dreaded "Low Battery Voltage" (or similar) warning off the dash. Alas due to the dreaded C-word its not driven very often. If you use one connect the positive to the battery terminal but the negative to the vehicle chassis not the battery terminal. Why? Most modern cars have a charge current detector/sensor on the negative terminal. That way the cars ECU knows the battery is being charged and its state of charge. With 220mA max current it can be left connected whenever the car is not in use. Just hang a label over the steering wheel to remind the driver its there and must be disconnected not dragged down the road. :-)