Boiler price

Just had a quote for a new boiler. Existing rads, pipework, pump, valve,
electrics etc. I'm draining & flushing the system & running the condensate
waste. Going in the same place as the existing one, some brick work needed.
Running 3 double rads & 5 singles. 3 bed semi.
Guy wants £1,236 inc VAT & a Magnaclean filter.
Doesn't specify the make of boiler.
Seems a bit OTT to me? Is it about right?
Reply to
The Medway Handyman
Since there's a cost variation in suitable boilers from about £400 to £1500, it's a bit difficult to say until you know what it is.
Is he including the Magnaclean filter or expecting you to do that bit? At any rate, it ought not to be necessary as long as you do a proper flushing job. A strainer in front of the boiler ought to be enough to protect the boiler.
Reply to
Andy Hall
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 19:19:00 +0000 Andy Hall wrote :
If you can guarantee that the existing system is clean. When I replaced my mum's boiler I thought I did a reasonable job of flushing - connected mains one end, drain the other and opened up each rad in turn, but was repeatedly having to clear the Y strainer - the system was cold and hot flushed after the boiler swap. Swapped the strainer for a MagnaClean and it's been trouble free ever since: any debris gets taken out without impeding the flow.
Reply to
Tony Bryer
================================== Don't buy a pig in a poke.
Insist on knowing what boiler is being offered and then do a bit of research and find a boiler that you want at a price that suits you. When you know the price of the boiler you'll be able to compare his labour charge with your own to decide if it's reasonable.
Reply to
Seems like it could be quite cheap... it cost me not far off that to fit my own without charging for labour. So I would guess we are talking about a bottom of the range Biasi or similar...
I would have thought starting by specifying the boiler you want would be the way forward. See what quote you get then.
If it is a like for like swap (e.g. combi replacing combi etc) then that sounds like about three days work for one man with proper flushing and making good etc. So if the quote comes to more than the price of the boiler plus 3x your day rate, you know who is fitting it as well ;-)
Reply to
John Rumm
Its a conventional replaced by a condensing - not that I want one specifically, but thats what the Guvmint says I have to have. I'm flushing, they are making good.
I don't have a problem fitting my own boiler, done it twice before, but although I'm very competent I'm not CORGI. Wouldn't this be a problem?
Reply to
The Medway Handyman
Are you serious - THREE DAYS? I had a backboiler/gas fire removed and a new boiler fitted, re-routed gas pipe and water pipes, thermostats etc. It took *ONE* day and the system was also flushed out completely. It was a conversion from old to new heating system. If a straight changeover takes three days then the fitter is either stringing it out for extra money, ripping the customer off or crap.
Reply to
Pete Smith
In terms of the work needing to be done that is pretty much like for like (apart from the drain obviously) - its not the same as having to rip out cylinders etc, and do loads of other re-plumbing in the process for example. To do the latter (going from vented storage to combi) took me about 4 days all in.
Not really. The only legal requirement is the competent bit.
Reply to
John Rumm
How many people working?
You might get it done in two man days perhaps if you hit no snags, but I would say that doing it much quicker is pushing it or skimping something otherwise.
Also appreciate I was estimating what it would probably take Dave to DIH given that while competent on the individual jobs, he does not routinely fit boilers for a living, and hence may need a little extra time.
To do mine, working methodically and carefully took about four days (albeit for a more complex job than just a swap out).
The job list was:
In loft
Tie up ballcock in CH header Drain system - ensure 3 port valve is in centre pos to ensure heating loop is drained. Cut CH feed and return in loft and loop back. Include gate valve on a tee in loop Cap pipe ends to prevent seepage
Take static gas pressure reading and ensure loss is zero Turn off gas Pull fuse from boiler FCU Disconnect boiler electrics and remove programmer Disconnect CH feed and return Disconnect gas feed Open boiler Remove from wall Remove old flue fill old flue hole with bricks and mortar Using template mark out positions Core bore new flue exit Fit boiler mounting frame (remove tiles as required) Connect CH feed and return Remove existing gas feed pipe to under worktop Cut new hole through worktop for DHW feed and return, 22mm gas, condensate Install 22mm gas feed from existing ¾" pipe Turn off water Cut in new DHW feed and return and connect with service valves Install filling loop Mount boiler on tray Install new flue Install condensate drain
Tie off cistern ballcock Drain remains of hot water Disconnect hot water output from cylinder and cap off Disconnect input mains water from cistern and CH header tank Disconnect cold shower feed from cistern and connect to rising main
Remove bath panel and identify CH stat wire - join to existing down wire and disconnect from remainder. (Leave remainder available for pulling through new wires later!)
Connect boiler electrics and stat Carry out any pre checks as per install manual Carry out gas soundness test Purge gas meter and pipework Commission boiler as per manual Flush as required Treat with corrosion inhibitor Remove tanks etc. and cylinder from loft.
Reply to
John Rumm
I have twice watched a combi swap with minor pipework modifications and a new flue outlet done by 2 men in 3 hours. Alas, being CORGI registered doesn't make you a skilled fitter.
Reply to
Stuart Noble
You are no doubt aware that a significant minority of all posts on this group are on this subject. See FAQs.
Reply to
Ed Sirett

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