Blown Capacitor

Jul 22, 2021 Last reply: 4 years ago 26 Replies

Our Singer sewing machine, built in Italy about 40 years ago, has blown the capacitor across the mains input leads. From what I can see, it's a "0.022 µF @X, 250 V MP, ?? MHz, GPF 40/8(?)8(?)5/56, ?ME 271M522". The "?"s are due to the resulting trauma as a result of the "letting the smoke out" event. Looking at the RS website, I think this is a Polypropylene film capacitor, but I am not sure which is the most suitable. Since I don't know what much of the markings mean, apart from the capacitance and voltage, I could do with some help. Singer just say they don't service this old a model any more. It has flying leads, not PCB mounting studs. Any help with this much appreciated.


If it's across the mains lead, then any modern X2 capacitor should do. I assume it's actually 0.22uF.

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Sorry, I see you need a flying lead version. But X2 310v should be OK.

The important characteristics are X2 and an AC rating of 275V AC. For a single capacitor, rather than an RS pack, look at:

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You'll have to bodge it a bit. It is very difficult to find other than PCB-mounted types.

PA

The best of eBay will be:

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PA

A bit OT, but: I have recently completed a rebuild of my Tektronix 2465 oscilloscope - basically totally recapping it. The end of a project which began some three years ago, when I plugged it in after a gap of some time, and was presented with a loud BANG and horrible smell.

One of the X2 caps had blown. From reading some of the forums for Tek repair, it is clear that you can almost predict to the day when these would actually pop.

As I say, I ended up replacing most of the electrolytics, not just the X2s. I too have had to do the same on my Mum's old Bernina Sewing Machine...

J^n

Assuming its across the mains, not part of the motor driving parts, then yyou can run it without it. Its probably part of a suppressor to stop impulses getting into the mains supply. So almost any high voltage capacitor, I'd suggest over 1000v working polyester of from .1uf up would do. In many of these filters there are three capacitors between the three pins if it has an earth as well, so if it does have these change em all. I had a drill like that. The magic smoke has an interesting smell! Brian

It's an X rated one which means it can be connected across the mains, it's simply a suppression capacitor. The sewing machine should work fine without it but may interfere with radios, TVs, etc.

So you just need a 0.022µF X rated capacitor.

Watch out for fake capacitors!

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That is a dangerous assumption

That's why I linked to rswww.com.

Last time I wanted some, I got them from CPC. That was for a knitting machine. I ended up sending out sets of caps (and instructions) to a load of people on SWMBO's knitting machine group.

Thanks for all the replies. Am otherwise busy right now (computer trouble etc) but will follow these up.

Cheers,

I usually buy my caps from Digikey, mouser or Farnells and I stick to trusted brands such as Panasonic etc.

If it really is directly across the L & N input then take out its remains and forget about it. It's there to meet the electromagnetic emission standards but its removal will make absolutely no difference to you or anyone else.

Well I wouldn't go that far. ADSL broadband is in the SW/MW/LW range and that's where you are likely to see RF generated by brush noise...and a cap really helps keep it down

I thionk CPC is pretty safe then!

Is it in the foot control or in the main machine? Either way, it's probably one of these:

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I bought one about 18 months ago to replace a burnt out one in the foot control of our old machine. Although the blurb says that the leads may be shorter than illustrated, for PCB mounting, the one supplied to me had flying leads which were plenty long enough. Even if they're not, you can always solder some wire onto each leg to extend it.

Now we're talking! It is in the main body of the machine, but it sounds as though they are universal wherever they are. I'll order a couple or so, ready for the next one to go bang. Thanks.

You can save your time and money. As I said before, if it is connected as you describe then you do not need it. Products have to be shown to comply with both conducted and radiated electromagnetic emission standards in order to be placed on the market. The capacitor that has failed is part of the input filter and removing it will have no bearing on anything in the real world.

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