Linear Halogen Spot problem

Jul 22, 2021 Last reply: 4 years ago 5 Replies

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AnthonyL 4 years ago

My back garden light has failed. I'm in a bungalow and it is just under the apex but if I stand on a board on top of the porch I can lean over a bit and reach it.

After a bit of a fight I got the screw out, took the bulb out and used a neon mains screwdriver tester which glows when touching the futher away terminal.

I confidently bought a pack of 3 from Screwfix, went up and put it in today and ..... nothing.

So I'm guessing either the neutral terminal is corroded or the bulb is faulty.

I've thought about replacing the whole assembly but it isn't easy to work up there, it is fastened with two Philips screws which look well and truly corroded and of course I'd have to wire into a new unit.

But the other downside is that this is 8000 lumen and makes the whole back garden look very attractive. Getting that light from LED seems quite expensive, certainly compared with £3.60 for a pack of 3 halogen

400w R75.

So some ideas please why it won't work, how best to test the neutral, how to test the bulbs etc.

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Jeff Layman 4 years ago

Did you try one of the other bulbs, as you only mention "it"?

Could be corrosion, or could be the spring connector is loose and not making contact properly with the terminal on the R75. If the light just does not work, and you can't get to the connections inside the case, I think your only option is a replacement. LEDs are very expensive compared to halogen R75s, and IME the lumen output stated is, shall we say, highly optimistic. Also, if you are going to replace the unit, make sure you get one with replaceable LEDs rather than a single, fixed LED, non-replaceable "bulb". Yes, I know LEDs last for at least 25000 hours, and never fade, but that information comes from the same source as the lumen output...

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Brian Gaff 4 years ago

Sounds like it could be corroded or if its a springy bit it can be a rivet which is corroded. Outside lighting seems to me to be a liability most of the times I've ever had them. Brian

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AnthonyL 4 years ago

No, but the blown one was open circuit even though there was nothing visibly obvious. The "it" I tried reads 10ohms with a multi-meter so I was presuming it should light up with 240v across it.

Well if I can get to replace it then I'll also be able to get to check the connections - just that the Philips screws holding it to the wall will be problematic.

Indeed, I will lower my expectations substantially with LED and thanks for the tip of replaceable LEDs.

I'll try and get up a ladder and take the multimeter with me next time.

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Roger Mills 4 years ago

Indeed. A multimeter is a far better tool than a neon mains tester which

- at best - tells you that *something* appears[1] to be live, but not that there is a return path.

With a multimeter you can both measure the voltage across the fitting and test the continuity of the R75s.

[1] Sometimes falsely, because of induction

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Animal 4 years ago

FWIW it'll be way cheaper to buy & run a LED fitting than continue with the halogen, even if you fix it free.

As for where it's faulty, the break could be anywhere.

Generally replacement lights don't need to be in the same place, sometimes that can make fitting a new one much easier. Ie connect a new cable run to it rather than connect new fitting to old fitting.

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