On two sockets? The ones I have installed have busbars fullty capable if stri=butuing 13A to either socket without oiverheating. Once past teh actual screw down termination (to which oboth pairs of te ring go) the bars split towards teh two sockets, and are far more substantial than teh wiring in cross section, so wheres the problem?
The ONLY case I have ever had of plug or socket fauilure have been in a single plug or socket that has suffered ARCING, or corrosion and then arcing.
That's a problem almost irrespective of how many appliances are plugged into it. Since ehat is plugged in is essentially 13A limited.
This topic comes up from time to time. BS 1363 only requires double socket-outlets to be type-tested at 20 A total load. The assumption that this will be the max. load on a double socket permeates the wiring regs. - the cable to a double socket on an unfused spur, for example, might only be rated to carry 20 A.
You can't just assume a 26 A rating, although several manufacturers' products are so rated. E.g. I rang MK about this during one of the previous threads on this and they said theirs are OK for the full 26 A, provided the wiring is also capable of that current.
Best practice in kitchens of course is to provide dedicated single socket outlets (or FCUs) for the large appliances, each with a separate control switch in an accessible location.
IME most problems are caused (or rather start) in the plug and result from loose terminal screws or dirty fuse contacts. The plug pin(s) - usually the L pin - overheats and then damages the socket. The heat de-tempers the socket's spring contact, increasing contact resistance there and generating more heat: positive feedback, thermal runaway, fishy smell... That said, such problems seem to have become much rarer since the Plugs & Sockets (Safety) Regulations came in to force, requiring 3rd party approval for all products.
MEM do a central switch box with labled breakers: cooker, fridge, etc. This can be in a separate cupboard, or outside the kitchen. Spare cables can be run to the kitchen is case of expansion.
This may get you past Part P, as virtaully all of the work is outside the kitchen
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Wrong - it should be readily accessible within the kitchen. There has been recent clarification[*] from the IEE that hiding control switches in cupboards is not acceptable.
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- see "good practice in kitchens" starting on p.13 of the PDF.
Oh dear - I think that is going to end up in court then. There is no way those buying top end 'dream' kitchen manufacturers are going to accept ghastly control switches being on display. And suppliers charging £50k up do at least expect to deliver what the client asks for.
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