Hi
I need some advice on a problem I'm having having with my central heating.
First off, my existing setup is a Baxi Solo 70/4 PF in an S-PLan+ arrangement. It has/had a bypass that consisted of 1' of 15mm pipe bridging the flow and return with a Gate valve to control the flow.
I tried to turn the thermostat on the boiler up to increase the temperature of the radiators in an attempt to get the house up to temperature. This works fine until the room thermostat clicks off (or the ch timer cuts off) then all hell breaks loose. Obviously the water is kettling in the boiler and this results in all the banging. Easy enough so far. Assuming there was a pump overrun on the boiler to cope with this I started messing about with the gate valve to no great effect. I then decided that the bypass wasn't dumping enough heat so re-routed a towel radiator (with no TRV) in the bathroom to act a bypass. Still no joy. I then realised that the pump wasn't actually overrunning at all! A quick google and I had convinced myself that this boiler has a timed overrun of 7mins (how I came up with that, don't ask). So I decided this was knackered and not wanting to bugger about with things too much at this time of year, decided pipe thermostat wired in parallel to the pump would be the answer.
Duly fitted and everything seemed great, cranked up the boiler thermostat, set the pipe thermostat and left it too it. Result was a nice roasty-toasty house and no banging/thumping when the room thermostat clicked off.
Now you've probably guessed by now that I'm not writing this to tell you that I fixed it!
When the room thermostat clicks off, the 2-port valve closes and the boiler shuts down. The pipe thermostat keeps the pump running until the temperature drops. However, before the pipe thermostat cuts off, the boiler springs back to life heating the water back up again and so it goes on. SWMBO likes the bathroom to be warm but we've got an impromptu sauna now :( So I've put the boiler thermostat back down to position 2 and turned the pipe thermostat setting up and am back to where I started.
A further search resulted in finding the manual for the boiler (Baxis spares partner site, doh) It turns out the boiler thermostat is what controls the overrun and following the fault finding diagram would suggest that replacing it should solve all my ills. I've no problem doing this but wonder if this will just re-introduce the cycling problem and there is something more fundemental going on.
Should the boiler not have some sort of interlock that stops it from firing when there is no actual heating load. I'd noticed it coming on every now and again in the summer but thought nothing of it at the time. Sorry for the long post but its a slow day at work!
Cheers,
Mark.