Bathroom wiring 1 last bit

[leenowell]

Hi all

I am now at the final stage of sorting my bathroom out. A number of you he lped me with my wiring questions thanks -

$20wiring/uk.d-i-y/jpmoXo198GI

I have a switched fused (13a) spur in a cupboard in the bathroom which feed s a spa bath. At the end of this feed is a IP5x junction box under the bath feeding the motors. I am now looking to fit some 12v LED strip lights by the bath so need to feed the transformer off this feed.

So.. a couple of questions

1. Assume I will need to fit another fused (3a) spur for the led lights? If so, will a standard one under the bath be ok or do I need to fit a waterpr oof one? Assume the bath panel needs a tool to remove it.
2. The bath surround itself has the front removable. It is tightly in place with some short nails holding it to the frame. It is possible to remove wi th your hands but not easy. Would this be ok as needing a tool (thinking he re is that you are not going to be removing it whilst wet and come out of t he bath not like it is a door or simple latch to remove). I don't want to s crew it in as not easy to do it without spoiling the look. If not, if I ma sticed the join between front and sides then it will need a knife to remove it and will this be ok?

Thanks as always

Lee.

[newshound]

I'd have said that nails was logically equivalent to "needing a tool".

As an alternative to mastic which may get messy, especially if you do remove and replace it, for a "straight" joint you can make a very professional looking finish with ordinary PVC electrical tape, stretched slightly during application. Apply with excess at the start and finish, finally finish after it is pressed down by cutting square with a craft or stanley knife.

[Tricky Dicky]

Why not feed the LEDs from the spur unit in the cupboard, you could even position the LED driver in there?

Richard

[John Rumm]

You may not need actually need additional fusing - it depends on what is specified for the lights PSU.

That counts as "outside" of the bathroom wiring zones. So needs no special treatment - hence just use what is appropriate for the circumstance.

For the purposes of the wiring regs it sounds like its a "fixed" bit of the installation - i.e. its not like a cupboard you can just open and reach into easily. I would not worry about any additional sealing unless you require it for other reasons.

[leenowell]

Thanks very much guys. I can't feed these LEDs off the cupboard spurs as they are the opposite sides of the room and floor down so to much hassle to run wires. The LEDs at the cupboard are fed off a 3 amp fused spur in the cupboard.

Thanks again John will check the transformers when I get home as not sure exactly which spec I bought. The type are these

If that is any good?

[John Rumm]

Hard to tell from a photo ;-)

[leenowell]

Yeah the Amazon description isn't that helpful. It says "Over-current protection and short circuit protection"but TBH not sure what to look for to determine whether it needs to be seperately fused.

[John Rumm]

The protection is probably on its load side... There is unlikely much you can do on the supply side that will require overload protection, and chances are it will be fault protected by the 13A fuse upstream.

Having said that, if you need a convenient way to make a termination to it and join wires (i.e. if you can't easily run T&E into it) then a FCU us as good a box and place to do it as any other enclosure).

[leenowell]

Ah yes good points as usual John. If I can find a spot to attach it I might as well put the fused switch in more for convenience than anything else and I could always switch it off if needed.