Back boxes for plasterboard walls

[Grumps]

I think I'm going mad! Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel box in this location.

[Jim GM4DHJ ...]

do they not just clip in?...what's the problem with that? ..

[Jim GM4DHJ ...]

...and it is not a noggin it is a dwang...and it is not a jab it is a jag ...tee hee

[Brian Gaff (Sofa]

There really are some terrible examples around of what folk do to secure boxes. Around the back from me some cheap throw uphouses with plasterboard walls seem to have the back boxes for switches secured by what look like staples through the back through some holes. Quite what these hold onto is a bit of a mystery. Brian

[Owain Lastname]

it's not a willy it's a boaby

Owain

[Roger Mills]

Yes.

[Jim GM4DHJ ...]

totly

[John Rumm]

Yup a dry lining box has a clamp attached to the screws that go through the face plate, that pulls the box tight to the plasterboard (the lip on the edge of the box, stops it being pulled through the hole in the wall).

The better boxes have a kind of ratchet action that keeps the clamp locked in place even if you undo the screws later.

[JohnP]

r.

I guess some people just fail to get the correct back box for the job and become inventive.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Correct

[Tricky Dicky]

I think most electricians prefer the metal box on a noggin especially if on first fix they have access to the stud work only using dry lining boxes when an additional socket is mounted in an existing wall. The main reason I am told is that the front lip of the dry line box is often visible especially when using some of the decorative outlets.

I have seen an example of an electrician fixing a metal box to an existing studded wall by glueing a suitable spacer piece to the other PB back then screwing the box to the spacer.

Richard

[John Rumm]

Yup that works well IME - also gives you a fireproof and earthed back box which can matter in some cases.

[Andrew]

Or, where they need to put a backbox, there is a noggin (partly) in the way, so the clips are tricky to engage.

[Dave Plowman (News]

Here, I generally use battens either side of the metal box fixed through the plasterboard with brass screws. Then just fill the heads. Saves messing around waiting for glue to dry. Of course if working in an already decorated room, glue may be required. You often have to drill holes in some makes of boxes too for the screws between that and the battens.

Of course for DIY, it's only my time. I doubt a pro wants the fiddle.

[ARW]

It should not be visible if the dry liner is fitted before the wall is skimmed.

But yes I am a noggin and metal backbox man.

[Fredxx]

Isn't that because you wire and fit back boxes before the plasterboard is possibly even on site?

[The Natural Philosopher]

I've used all of the possible approaches, including a dry lining box screwed to a stud on one side as that is where it ended up

Its a bit like screws versus nails. I built a woodshed. a friend remarked 'why screws'? 'Because I am old and a cordless screwdriver is less effort than a hammer'

Not the normal reason

[ARW]

Not always!

On apartments quite often one side of the stud wall is often boarded.