MK list special back boxes for their grid switches, e.g. item no. 892 for flush mounting the 3 and 4 gang grids. Is there some subtle difference that prevents the grids being used with "normal", and cheaper, boxes? A plastic dry lining box would be more convenient for a task I have in mind but I was wondering if the grid would seat properly on it.
I've never used a special MK backbox for gridswitch mounting a single row. When you're screwing the row into the box, there's very little extended metalwork to screw up flush against the wall, and if the plaster around the box isn't perfect, you can find you have nothing to screw it up tight against. In that case, screw it up so it would be level with the wall finish (if the wall finish had been present in the right place), and then screw about half or one turn further. Now when you screw the facia onto the grid row, it will be the edge of the facia gripping the wall, rather than the edge of the grid row, but that works just fine IME.
Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:
I just phoned GET about their grid dimmer modules and asked the same question - in my case: "Why do you sell special back boxes, wouldn't 35mm standard boxes be OK?".
The technical answer was, yes it would fit a standard box as you say Andrew - but the bloke also said that they require deeper boxes for the dimmer modules to allow for heat dissipation. I think their grid boxes are
42mm deep - but he said, of course I could use a standard 47mm box if I wanted.So back to the OP: do you want dimmers? If not, I think 35mm standard boxes would house most modules quite happily.
Cheers
Tim
I think it's that if fitted correctly you can tighten the grid to the lugs and the plate will then be an exact fit to a perfect wall. With an ordinary steel box you have to leave the grid slightly lose and use the plate to nip things up. Dunno about using dry lining boxes - I hate them so never do.
Other thing is grid boxes are made for multiple grids - so the one and two gang just complete that range.
No, just a couple of rocker switches and a push switch so no problem with depth here.
Thanks Andrew and Dave for the point about the ends of the grid possibly not locating against the box. It shouldn't be a problem to let the switch plate provide the alignment against the wall as you describe. Judging from the number of boxes that end up being fitted just below the plaster surface, and sometimes not even quite parallel to it, I expect quite a few grids must end up being aligned this way even with the "official" grid boxes.
I had also wondered if the spacing between the mounting screws might have been different from standard boxes, your replies have confirmed there's no problem with that.
As regards dry lining boxes, people either love them or loathe them. I find them quick and easy to fit but agree they can sometimes look ugly. In this case with a plain white switch plate they'll be OK. One plus point though - when you loosen them off to repaint the wall it's the flange on the box that sticks to the tacky paint when you tighten them up afterwards so if you ever need to remove the switch or socket it doesn't pull any paint away with it.
That's one great benefit of grid switches - you can remove the plate for decorating while continuing to use the switch. With care, obviously. If only sockets were similar.
I'm always amazed at professional decorators, who go to great lengths to get perfectly straight paint edge lines against skirting edges, architrave, cupboards, etc, but paint randomly over the edges and face of all wiring accessories. It's not like this is just one decorator either -- it applies to every decorator I've ever come across.
Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:
You can with the screwless flat plates :)
Ah - not come across those.
Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:
Yep - not dissimilar to grid switches. The socket plate is really a subplate which is screwed on normally, though the plate doesn't protrude beyond the box much (like grid). The decorative plate clips onto the subplate.
Only downside is it turns a £2.75 2 gang socket into a 12-15 quid 2 gang socket ;->
Cheers
Tim
Having done the job I can now confirm that the lugs on the ends of the MK grid locate against the flange of a dry lining box with no problem.
The only minor snag to watch out for is to make sure that the grid is precisely aligned horizontally in relation to the box otherwise the front plate won't align with the flange and will look messy. If it becomes a problem just partially tighten the grid screws to start with then temporarily offer up the front plate and use it to slide the grid round a bit.
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