Switche Panel for Kitchen Lights / Appliance Isolation

Various makers supply grid switch systems whereby you can mix and match different types of switches, FCUs, neons, cord outlets, etc. And they all do 20 amp DP switches which will be ok for many ovens, but check its rating first.

For a larger cooker which needs, say, a 45 amp supply, it would be possible to use a contactor (large relay). But not really something for the inexperienced.

Both Screwfix and TLC do mail order grid components. However, there is a wider range available from a decent wholesaler. It depends on what make/style of sockets you need to match to, appearance wise.

MK Grid switch range (or equivalent)?

Grid switches have a current rating of upto 20amps, and include options like 13a fuse ways, neon indicators, dimmers, etc.

I guess anything is possible, but somehow I have a gut feeling that just ain't a good idea. Pity the poor bugger who has to come and sort it out in the event of a fault a few years from now when you've sold the place and moved on.

It is possible to mix switches of different ratings in one panel by using grid system components.

These are not usually noted for their contemporary style, and I do not know any grid system that has a switch with a rating greater than 20A.

A typical cooker circuit requires a 45A double-pole isolator.

You could use a contactor to switch the oven, but you would still however need to include an isolating switch somewhere in the circuit before the contactor. You should also provide an isolating switch for the control circuit.

A contactor is not usually considered an adequate means of isolation unless it can be mechanically locked in the off position.

You should also consider some other safety aspects of your scheme, such as what happens when somebody hits the wrong switch while trying to turn on the light.

I would in any case recommend drawing a detailed circuit diagram for an unusual arrangement of circuits like this. This is so that anybody who wanted to modify or repair the installation can understand how it is wired.

If Part P is involved then you might have some difficulty getting a BCO to sign off what you are doing, as some of them seem to be confused by anything other than a straightforward installation.

John

I'd have thought light switches need to be near the entrances and appliance switches somewhere convienet to the working position...

As mentioned grid switches are about your only option but they do look a bit "industrial".

You can get MK ones with all of their range of decorative wiring accessories -

Navigate to

Basically you can get the modules in white or black and with or without metal caps in brass, chrome, satin,..... to match the plates.

The Grid system isn't restricted to the while plastic or the grey metal industrial system.

I used some from this range in my kitchen and wanted a particular brass plate type with black inserts. They can supply them. More obscure items can be on 6 weeks delivery and special order but are obtainable.

I have one plate with a bank of four 20A switches covering domestic appliances in the utility room. In another place there is a plate with some soft start dimmers and regular switches. Apart from the larger size of the plates they are not distinguishable from the single and double gang switch plates in the same range.

However, there is nothing of rating greater than 20A that I could find.

Note that the wall boxes are deeper than normal switch plates.

That's an important point. I suggest that what the OP proposes is a step too far and would split this into at least three blocks: lighting, cooking and other appliances. Remember that there is a requirement for clear labelling - any switches whose function is not obvious should be labelled (many electrical wholesalers offer an engraving service for this sort of thing). There's also a recommendation that cooker switches should be within 2 metres of the appliance they control. And all controls and switchgear should be readily accessible, so hiding switches in cupboards is not acceptable either.

That too.

All, Many thanks for the excellent responses. Has certainly raised some points that I had not considered. Time to return to the drawing board - I think I will certainly split these into multiple panels and skip the idea of remote switching.

Thanks to the pointers re grid panels - wasn't aware of them.

One further question - I believe the regs say that switches etc should be mounted on the fabric of the building. Are kitchen units deemed to be the fabric of the building?

Thanks Roy

IEE advice [1] (not the regulations) says this:

"5.2.2 Location of accessories in kitchens

General guidance can be provided as follows:

(i) Wiring accessories (e.g. socket-outlets, switches) should be mounted on the building fabric and not on kitchen furniture."

So the answer to your question is no - but it is only general guidance.

If they are I'd be worried about the building :)

NT

Andy,

I knew there was something somewhere.. Many thanks for the pointer.. Hmm "guidance" - now I have to weigh up all the pros and cons and decide if I ignore the guidance in this instance.

Many thanks, Roy

Assuming the units are firmly fixed to the walls, etc, I'd ignore them. After all, you can fix things like fluorescent lights to the undersides of wall cupboards, so fixing sockets to carcasses ain't that much different.

Yes, I think the advice is aimed at preventing dire practices such as having sockets for washing machines etc. fixed to 15 mm chipboard with