Is there a recommended and secure method for attaching a pick axe head
to a suitable handle? The handle on my pick axe just broke and I need
to get a new handle, but having never attached one before do I need to
do anything in particular?
I vaguely recall once reading about soaking the handle in water once
it was attached, but the memory is vague.
Thanks for any advice anyone can offer.
Mine is loose. The way I swing it always drives the head away from me,
and the handle is fattest at that end, so I never have a problem. Mine
is the variety known as a mattock, this may not work on a true pickaxe.
According to the hardware shop owner where I got a new (hickory) handle
for my mattock last week they use the same handles. Mine too is
currently loose but the previous incumbent (my third I think) was stuck
on so hard I had to perforate the butt with a drill before I could drive
the remnant out.
On 27 Nov, 21:41, email@example.com (jamma-plusser) wrote:
A pick handle needs no securing; the pick is slid onto the handle from
the top. The very bottom of the handle is flared so that it is much
larger than the "eye" of the pick. Be careful, when you start using
the rehandled pick, that the pick doesn't slide back down the handle
onto your fingers when you raise it above your head. HTH.
Not all pick handles are like that!
The many that I have changed over the years generally needed hand-fitting
into the head, a slot cut in it to take a hardwood wedge (or two as the case
may be) and then a couple of 'hefty' metal 'quillets' driven across the
grain of the wedges.
Ah.. the good old days of being an apprentice and 'cussing' at all and
sundry who dared to bring a broken shovel, spade, pick or sledgehammer
handle into the workshop - I hated the damn things then and still do 40
years later :-)
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 23:10:31 -0000, Brian G wrote:
That to my ears is the proper way of fixing a pick head to handle. Yes,
the pick end of the new handle may well have a taper but that needs to fit
the hole in the head snuggly and then be forced into contact by the
wedge(s) to stop it sliding down the handle on your hands and/or head...
The quillets hold the the wedge(s) in and stop them working loose.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 21:41:24 GMT, jamma-plusser wrote:
Have a look at the old one. You'll find wedges in the end of the handle at
the pick end.
Fitting a hammer or pick axe head needs to done well or it will come loose
or worse fly off... It's not difficult but something that needs to be done
with care to ensure that the handle is splayed out by the wedges to fully
mate against the inside of the head. The wedges also need to be very
tight. If the old wedges are metal I'd rescue them and reuse, timber I
wouldn't. I think you can buy new metal handle wedges.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 21:41:24 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org
No. If you do attach it rigidly, you'll break it.
Picks are pretty standard sizes: there are two, but they're obviously
different. Any handle (a "heft" if you're picky) should just drop
through from the top.
IMHO, a good fine sanding and a coat of Danish oil on the shaft is worth
it, for reduced wear on your hands.
If you're talking axes or hammers instead, I posted that to
rec.woodworking a while back. In glorious OCD-detail.
Depends on whether it is the 'quick' fit type handle or the older method of
fixing with wedges etc.
Good for slipping out of your hands you mean - a shaft should NEVER be oiled
or coated! For those who's mind tends to wander - read into this what you
will - wink, wink.
Differences of opinion I agree, but that's life.
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