I have overtaken him on many ovccasions
Its importamnt to be far back so he can't see you as he peers out of his mypopic lenses, doing exactly 10.1 mph under whatever he thinks the speed limit is, congratulating himself on how safe he is as he swerves from side to side should anyone dare endanger their lives by attempting to overtake him.
With luck you are past his unsafe (but street legal) kangaroo court car, before he even knows you exist.
Seems reasonable. It's usually hard to measure the last smidgen of pad thickness without some dismantling. Once you're in there, you might as well re-assemble with new pads.
They didn't _need_ to be replaced just yet, but it wasn't gouging to replace pads in that state. They wear out with use, they _will_ inevitably need replacement. Yours were certainly getting that way.
Laboour (2 hours?) is maybe on the high side. Shouldn't take that long to swap pads on most modern cars.
they weren't that thin, but they were worn..but the real issue was that te discs did overheat and so did the very little pad material left. And so did therefore the callipers and the brake fluid. Whatever, the damned thing had faded to about 1/4 of what it normally was by the time I was down to 30mph where the two cars that had pulled onto the motorway were gaily side by side having a drag race.
Remember, the pads keep the heat from the brake fluid ..
Get a Volvo. Disks are cheaper than pads and quicker to change.
Some pads have a pair of wires embedded about 1/3 of the way through the thickness, which connect to a warning light on the dashboard. When the pads have worn sufficiently for the ends of the wires to be shorted out by making contact with the brake disc, the light is activated. They work too. My wife's last Metro had them.
Sound advice in the days when brakes often didn't. Bad advice today. as brakes do a vastly better job and your foot is already on them if you need an emergency stop.
And irrelevant if you have an automatic.
AND irrelevant or dangerous in the context that if you are not in the habit of using the brakes, you will be in real trouible if you DO need thenm, and they haven't been used in ages in anger.
A discount is easily available from an independent garage. The one I use was started by the local Rover franchise foreman mechanic, when Rover went bust.
I had to have my air con re gassed earlier this spring, a week later and he had to replace some chaffed pipes and re gas it again. Both times he gave me more than a £25-00 discount on the re gassing. I went in earlier this week because something was making my back right tyre to go soft. He repaired it and showed his new apprentice what to do and didn't charge me at all.
Dave
which doesn't do engine braking whatsoever.
Reverse torque on the old MAXI gearbox was guaranteed to pull the nut holding the (layshaft) pinion off, gouging a hole in the side of the gearbox, and losing all the oil..:-)
But ...
it's a Volvo
Changing gear without using the clutch (doing a clutchless double-declutch) - if the car will actually allow you to do it, and if you know how to do it - does no harm, except for maybe using a little more fuel when changing down (compared with allowing the synchromesh to do the work for you).
Not if you are good at heel and toe..
I've driven miles without a clutch. Only problem is starting..just do it in first gear, and you more or less can start the whole car on the starter. Assumongte clutch is stick engaged of course.
Slipping clutches are bad news. That of course what you get if you are crap at changing gears and you use engine braking.
I've also driven Buckingham to Cambridge with no brakes on a Friday night. I was soaked with perspiration when I finished. Because all I had was the engine and the handbrake (chafed hydraulic line) I didn't dare go fast. This was open invitation for idiots in BMW's to overtake and cut in in front of me. I didn't over rev the engine either, but it was close. Engine braking doesn't cut the mustard. Been there..done that..
Yes, it's always worth checking with a mirror to see if the pads are wearing evenly. The calliper bushes can be cleaned and greased with a dab of copper grease occasionally to make sure they are less likely to favour one side.
S
Well actually, the only time I use a clutch is when I brake to a stop and move from a standing start, for normal driving it's easy to match engine speed to road speed and just slip the box in and out of gear
Whatt??
Disk, cheaperthan pads?
If that's the case on a volvo, I wonder anyone buys one.
With many modern cars, a set of discs will only normally last through two sets of pads, so you rather often do need them.
A car will also pass its MOT on far less pad than what is shown. It really is disgusting that so long as a car shows a stoppable on a roller that the pad could shear off at next pedal push. The tester doesn't need to look at the pads at all.
Once you have driven a Bedford TK you never forget.
As you say, it does depend on how she drives (and what car they came off).
No set of front brake pads would get near to lasting me a year at present, from new. But I am driving 40,000 miles per year, which seems unlikely for somebody who (from her other posts) is a pretty new driver.
Do you know how a synchro' box works?
Terry gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
Since the tester isn't permitted to dismantle the car at all, the pad thickness quite simply can't be checked on many cars.
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