modest? We used to cure 24 hour alardite in ten minutes with a hairdryer when it first came out (1963?) . It went translucent and dark brown, and was MUCH stronger.
I use epoxy a lot in model making, and always try to get some heat into it to get it runnier. It seems that if you don;t heat to cure, sometimes its prone to soften under heat anyway. No idea why..
Aircraft skins that are epoxy bonded use a lot of heat in the cure.
Shoes? Too brittle - use a polyurethane adhesive. Or superglue.
THANK you. That is EXACTLY what I have observed. Rubbery cures until heated, then she sets rock hard..
A 1-part polyurethane adhesive is probably better for that.
"Bison" shoe adhesive which is a one-part non-foaming adhesive is best. Araldite is a poor choice for shoes, it may be strong but it doesn't work well if the leather is moist (as from sweat) and it doesn't tolerate flexing at all.
Rubber glue is much better for this job. The horrible black gooey stuff (which hopefully someone can name) not the Copydex type. Sticks like s*it, can be flexed as much as you like and will outlive the shoes. Has to be used very carefully unless your shoes are black.
Anna
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes
I use a Black and Decker paint stripper. No good for paint but marvellous for de-frosting pipes, drying welding rods, softening plastics etc.
regards
In message , Anna Kettle writes
Bostick?
regards
All a bit confusing, but I agree araldite is a bit brittle. It seems the single part polyurethane is what I need (or the black rubber cement)--thanks again,
Seb
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