Merely pointing out that an impact driver of the correct type is less likely to damage the screw than brute force.
Merely pointing out that an impact driver of the correct type is less likely to damage the screw than brute force.
In the minority again... :-)
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There wouldn't be much work done if everybody found it necessary to use an impact driver to release every little fastener. Tools are designed for their purpose and hand tools are more than adequate for most purposes. An impact wrench is a specialised tool with quite limited usefulness. Most serious people have a range of spanners to cover their needs and learn how to use them properly.
Cic.
Are they cap headed or countersunk? if cap headed try vice grips to loosen.
Oops missed the csk.
That comment suggests you're either very skilled, or haven't used a decent impact driver. For removing old door hinge CSK slot head wood screws, there's nothing to beat one.
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I don't really know if I'm very skilled but I know that I am competent because I take the trouble to work out how to do jobs and I buy the correct tools for the job. I've owned and used a hand impact driver for many years and I've had an air impact driver for several years. Both tools have been invaluable when needed but I've always considered them tools of last resort for my purposes. The fact is that these tools, particularly the air tool(quite bulky) need space to be of any use. Hand tools, particularly spanners can be used in places where it would be impossible for any normal impact wrench or driver, especially when working on cars. Two recent examples in this NG come to mind; ratchet ring spanners and
22mm split ring plumbing spanners. It would be very difficult to get an impact wrench / driver to match the function of these and many similar hand tools.I believe that anything that can be done with an impact wrench / driver in normal conditions can be done just as well with the correct hand tool with the added bonus that there is little risk of damage from impact. I'm a bit surprised by the example of the door hinge screws; I don't doubt that it works but the traditional method (clean slot, couple of taps with screwdriver) has always worked well for me. You may enjoy using an impact driver for this job, but would you fail to do it using only a decent screwdriver?
Cic.
Takes seconds with my little Makita as opposed to ages faffing around with an ordinary screwdriver.
Amen to that. One of THE most useful things I own.
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But still with limited usefulness like any tool. You wouldn't otherwise need the other nine manual screwdrivers you recommend so highly for daily use in another thread.
Cic.
Thought final solution may be of use ...
Tried Allen key .. no good Tried Plus Gas & Hex bit in ratchet .. no good Tried off cut of Allen key in socket .. no good Tried heat ... no difference (could not go warmer than hand hot) Tried Plus Gas .. no good Bought proper Allen bit in socket ... no good
The problem is the screws being Stainless are reasonable soft .. and Allen key just chews out the hex head.
Solution .... hammered in a Torx T40 bit ... then using a ratchet & 3' extension bar the screws came out ... with hell of a crack ... kept expecting ratchet to break each time. First Torx bit remove screw but was ruined itself .... (was a bit from a multi part DeWalt set) ... went and bought a couple of WEARA bits ... they removed them with no damage to bits at all .... WERA bits really are worth the extra.
Once the parts come back from anodizing I will reassemble with stainless anti-seize paste.
If you were wondering what I was undoing .. it was this :
That makes up my my SkySki, which you use to have fun like this:
What's that being towed by? Looks like a line from the sky (hence the name I guess) but what's at the other (towing) end?
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