Affixing skirting boards - easy methods?

Sep 17, 2010 10 Replies

I'm fitting new skirting boards to a couple of bathrooms in my house. I'm using the 8" tall Victorian-style pine stuff that every builders merchant stocks.



The walls are studwork. What is an easy, neat, economical way to fix the boards in place nowadays? Something out of a tube, perhaps? I have several surplus mastic gun tubes of decorators' flexible filler. Could I use that? I have already painted the boards, prior to installing; I'd like to avoid whacking nails though them if possible.



Thanks,



Al


harry wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@k9g2000vbo.googlegroups.com:

I guessed there might be.

One

several surplus tubes) also sticks like sh*t to a blanket, I might as well use that. Anyone concur?

Al

No. It won't work.

No Nails, Gripfill, Pinkgrip et al. Known as 'grab' adhesives because of their high initial bond. Use the caulk to fill any gaps caused y uneven walls.

I used that for coving, a few years ago. Worked well.

For coving, yes: but as TMH rightly points, inappropriate for gluing on skirting boards.

IME the skirting may need something to support it for an hour or so, especially if you've been a bit mean with the Gripfil, but it doesn't have to be fixings. A few bricks stacked against the board works well enough.

but IME the boards/walls are never 100% true and you end up restraining boards whilst glue sets with a screw/nail or two or three

- when you get to 3 - you wonder WTF you bothered with the gripfil ;>)

save the caulk for the inevtiable gaps'n'cracks that will appear sooner or later (esp. in a bathroom)

Jim K

IME forcing the skirting to match a wall thats out looks wafty. Trick is to use a generous bead of grab adhesive so the board sticks along all or most of its length, then use caulk to fill any gaps.

I stuck the skirtings in my bathroom on with silicone sealer, which worked perfectly well.

Another way - especially in a small room like a bathroom, and if you need to bend the skirting slightly to conform to a slightly dished or bowed wall - is to use lengths of timber wedged between the skirting and the opposing wall on the other side of the room. (A very useful technique any time you want to generate large compressive forces temporarily, without causing any damage).

If you've got completely true walls and totally flat skirtings - ie there are no stresses / bending involved then there's no reason why that shouldn't work; however that's rarely the case IME and far better to use Gripfill etc.

David

Or whatever's left in your Gripfil cartridge. The solvent version starts going off pretty quickly, so you need to get it off the faces PDQ or, better still, be more careful applying it.

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