I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new fl
oor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not
the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane
the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would k
ick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed t
he bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effe
Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bi
t that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?
Thanks in advance
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
That 'end' of the bottom of the door you mean, rather than just a
leading / trailing edge as the door sweeps?
Strange. Could you have simply allowed the door to drop slightly when
you removed the hinge and re-fitted it?
I'm not sure that any amount of packing that will still allow the door
to sit in the frame squarely will resolve your issue.
Lifting the door 1mm by repositioning the hinges may do it (if you
have room over the door) but a lot of faff?
I think it might be time to get the plane out , or fit rising
Cheers, T i m
 What about a multitool on some protective material with the door
still hung (if it's only 1mm and 'for now')?
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 08:02:11 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\)"
Ah, but the flooring might have been compressed slightly by then as
That and rising butt hinges. I don't know why rising butts aren't
standard (they are here) thought as they make this issue of missing
the flooring (till the door is nearly closed and you don't want a gap)
nearly a non issue and means the door closes itself, handy if you have
dogs or kids that leave the door open when you want it closed (even if
not fully closed etc).
They also mean you can just lift the door off if you need to move
furniture in / out (if it give more room / width) or to paint the door
or frame (even if you also take the hinges off to do that, it's easier
to do when the door is on trestles).
Cheers, T i m
I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF
about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB
hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-)
That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be
cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat
or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you
wouldn't fit them for those reasons)?
Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the
whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't
pushed 'to') or outside).
But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad /
me) so I've grown up with them. ;-)
When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move /
move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even
if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing
what you want quickly and easily.
Cheers, T i m
All our internal door hinges are normal looking brass plated ones.
However, the hinge pins are removable. A tap at the bottom raises it and
then a screwdriver under the top edge lifts it out. Great for extra
access or for decorating.
With a door which starts out being a very good fit, you may need to
chamfer one corner to clear the frame. Which might not suit purists, if
you don't need rising butts. And the only time there is little option is
in a house where things ain't square.
*7up is good for you, signed snow white*
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 08:02:11 -0000, Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:
Not likely with an internal door in a centraly heated house. The
humidty is normally low and fairly stable.
An External door in winter is very likely to expand and jam, then
have large gaps around in summer...
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote:
Where does the door catch the floor? Near open, half way or near
If near open pack the bottom hinge against the door.
If near closed pack the bottom hinge against the frame.
If half way pack both sides of the hinge.
Be aware that such packing may make the door swing closed (or open)
on it's own accord. Ideally all the hinge pins need to be plumb
vertical above each other.
Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick.
Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to where it started.
Thanks again another job off the DIY list.
Assuming there is a bit of slack, doing as Chris suggested whilst
lifting the door up (hard) whilst doing the final tightening, might
help a bit (and a bit was all that was needed).
I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when
final tightening to make it sit better? ;-)
Cheers, T i m
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 11:17:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
True, except you can still get some slack on some things (even
countersunk things) and can bias the whole lot one way or another
before finally tightening up.
I get that if we are talking door hinges (I wasn't specifically when I
used 'something' above) it's all hardwood, the recess for the hinge is
a good fit and the screws a close fit though the hinge and woodwork,
you won't be able to do much at all.
In softwood, with some slack in the start of the hole and with some
space round the hinge, I believe you can (only if only a tiny bit).
I sorted a mates glass shower door to glass walled shower doing
similar. I pre loaded the hinges in the glass to exaggerate the 'lift'
and then held it high before clamping the hinges. The extra support
offered by the packing meant the hinge wouldn't drop (or drop as
quickly) as before (as the clamping force on the hinge wasn't
sufficient to hold everything in place as the door was opened / closed
and got wet etc).
Cheers, T i m
 I've even 'biased' substantial metal frames one way or another by
first moving / pulling / holding them in place with clamps / levers
and then bolting them though. Not my preferred way though, I like the
idea of things being unstressed when in their final place. ;-)
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