I'd like to mount a TV such that it swings into the gap beside a chimney breast when not in use and swings out about 45 degrees when wanted. The TV is about 1m wide, which is not much less than the gap, and surprisingly heavy. I've had a quick, unsuccessful, look for something suitable to buy so am wondering (reluctantly) about making a mount. Because of the load and arm length it will need to be quite solid. Has anyone here made such a thing, or found something to solve a similar problem?
A mount to swing a TV into an alcove
Jul 29, 2024
Last reply: 1 year ago
11 Replies
Something like this, maybe?
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I googled for heavy duty swivel tv bracket and it gave me lots of suggestions but this one appears to be strong enough/pull out far enough/swivel round enough.
What do you think?
Nick
Google for "TV Vesa mount". Flat panel TVs often have screw holes on back which can be used with the mounts.
If you have a small table there you could use one of these: https://
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If you get the right product it will hold the weight. I used to have a quite heavy CRT TV mounted on an arm that extended 2 to 3 foot from the wall. The bracket was securely attached to a brick wall with six fixing. It's probably more important that you consider carefully how you are going to fix the bracket so when the load is fully extended that the bracket does not pull out from the wall.
Thanks, but the arm is less then 500mm so isn't going to do what I need with a 1m wide TV. I've looked at quite a few but not found anything yet. I'm thinking along the lines of 2, well-separated, horizontal lengths of angle fixed to the wall; a welded ladder structure pivoted off it with some skateboard bearings; a cranked bracket to provide a pivoted attachment to the TV. A chunk of work (and brain exhaustion) so an off-the-peg solution would be good.
How deep is the alcove? i.e. how far out does it need to come before being rotated?
Something like:
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Will allow the TV to fold back flat against the wall, and then you can pull it away from the wall and rotate it when needed.
Of my three computer monitors, one monitor has 100mm x 100mm VESA holes, and I'm using the holes right now. The VESA pattern (four holes on a square-theme) gets bigger, on bigger devices. The arm needs tubular steel for the mass involved, and keeping the load safe. Plenty of shabby arms for sale. They have weight limits, those arms. Check TV specs for weight, to see if this is feasible without custom design (when the TV has no accommodation for mounting whatsoever). Really thin or cheap sets, have no room for these holes.
"VESA Hole Patterns for TV Wall Mounts"
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Part of purchase planning, is getting a TV which is stiff enough, to have VESA plate area and mounting holes. A really large TV might need two plates. For example, the "electronics box" on some devices is around two inches thick, and if the electronics box is placed in the VESA plate location, that gives clearance for the four screws to go inside the set. They can make holes in the internal PCB, to accommodate the mount. The screws can't go near the LCD panel. Needs clearance inside.
And things intended for wall mount, the connectors are facing down, so that the cabling does not bunch up behind the unit. An arm needs cable management.
In this example of a (hard-to-find) back view of a TV, the connector scheme may not be perfect, and may require right-angle connectors for some items, but you can see where the 400mm x 400mm VESA plate is intended to mount. You would at least need the 75 ohm antenna cable for cable TV, to fit to the set.
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With an arm, on the one hand, you want a low friction bearing. But on the other hand, you want a locking mechanism so the position of the TV cannot change. Whether the arm is in the retracted position (arm falls out when person walks by), or when the TV is pulled out for viewing. When the arm is retracted, that makes it harder to design a fitting suited to restrain it.
The arms I could find in Amazon, were awful looking, and nothing there that I would buy. I would guess they all came from the same big factory. In the past, I've seen some nice looking products. But a quick scroll yesterday, dreck. If you have a local "TV store", they'll have better mounts than Amazon, for you to look at. You can then decide, what style you like.
Depending on the mass, you would likely want at least two of the screws from the project, to screw into a 2x4. You will need your stud finder for the project. People are injured by falling TVs every year, and you don't want to be a statistic.
You can also get ceiling mounts. But then, it is the same deal, need to find solid wood above for the screws. Anchoring an overhead in plaster, is just asking for a "surprise". Depending on ceiling height, the set may clear the heads of all family members. You would not expect a 75" TV to be suited to overhead mounting, unless the ceiling was as high as Drakes mansion.
Ergonomics rules matter, and you will get complaints of "neck pain" if trying too exotic a mounting. Someone who designed a quite-large TV room for themselves, that's the first question I had, was "top of screen is way too high". You can see the same effect if you are forced to sit in the first row of seats at the movie theater (and you are looking up at the screen, at an angle). Even if you are young and healthy, you'll feel the strain when you leave the theater.
The trick with TV sets, is doing the job right the first time.
The TV room in uni, that was a ceiling mount, and at 10AM in the morning, the room was full -- because Sesame Street was on. The ceiling mount and the relatively high ceiling, meant you could see from the back.
Paul
The alcove is about 650 deep (including the depth of a big stone fire surround) and about 1010 wide. For the TV to be mounted on the back wall, to swing out of the alcove and to turn 45 degrees the arm would need to be getting on for 1000 long(!) If the bracketry is on the side of the alcove (the chimney breast) the arm only needs to be about
550-600 long. If I end-up making something I'll need to make a wooden mock-up to test the geometry before cutting metal.
Does it need to go right back in the alcove, or could you have a spacer behind it?
That one I linked to above has 454mm of reach on the arm. Also you could mount the arm offset on the VESA mount to give you some more side mounting reach.
I stuck a PDF with the dimensions and drawing on the wiki:
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Yup, probably a good plan...
You might be better off using a ceiling mount and using some sort of track system eg sliding door gear and modifying the securing plate to attach it to the track system. This will depending on the track enable you to pull it how far you want and most of the ceiling mounts do allow for rotation.
Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. It's a 2.8m ceiling so having something dangling might look a bit carp, but I'll do some more digging.
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