A few electrical questions

So give me a example of how you use all these at the same time in domestic use.

Do you allow diversity for the time taken for you to put on your skirt and make up on

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you plug all these appliance in?

Diversity applies to normal people not freaks like you.

Reply to
ARWadsworth
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Denise is a woman who can multitask

Reply to
geoff

But he'd have to isolate it first...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Indeed. I have a separate 40A radial circuit to feed a double fan oven and a ceramic hob. The washer/dryer, kettle, microwave (certainly not

2kW!) are all on a normal downstairs ring with a 32A MCB. Even when I'm using both ovens (rarely), and couple of hob rings, (as well as a bit of tumble drying) I've never tripped an MCB, or even the incoming fuse when occasionally boiling the kettle (which is a very rare occurence in my household).

What's a "plug in fish fryer", BTW? I'm a vegetarian.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

Not wishing to promote BG - but if you were an employer, with all the legal obligations to keep your workers safe - or risk being sued, wouldn't you make some rule about not working on an item of electrical equipment (in all types of standards of home) without a really perfect method of isolation that is 100% constant and reliable in all circumstances.

Reply to
John

Sunday lunch: Oven with 13A plug doing the roast (eg 2kW). Hob with 13A plug doing pan of spuds, pan of misc veg (eg 2kW). Washing machine doing the Sunday laundry (eg 1kW rising to 2kW).

Already coming up to 6kW and the fridge hasn't even kicked on yet.

JGH

Reply to
jgharston

A 4 ring hob would be cheaper... although 2.4kW is quite a sensible size to make them, in that at 10A each there is a reasonable chance a double socket would survive with two plugged in at once!

Reply to
John Rumm

Well a 32A MCB should never trip with loads upto 8.3kW. So sticking another

100W on for the fridge will not make any difference even if there is already a 6kW load and some inrush current from the motor.

It will also supply 10.6kW for an hour before tripping. The oven and hob spend more time using no electricity than using electricity when in use (they cycle on and off once they have reached cooking temperature). The washing maching is probably using electricity most of the time due to the motor but that is not a big load.

Cheers

Reply to
ARWadsworth

The important point to keep in mind is that is the maximum power, not the average. It will draw 2kW for a few mins when warming up, but after that will cycle on and off to maintain temperature. The result will be a significantly lower average load.

Hobs tend to be on dedicated circuits...

Again a couple of kW for heating purposes - but probably only for 10 15 min bursts as it does a fill for a hot wash. The motor will be a significantly lower load.

Nowhere close to even 6kW in a form that counts, and a fridge is a fairly small load.

Consider the example of a 15kW cooker given in the OSG. That is a peak load of over 65A. However the recommended circuit to supply is it a 32A radial.

One would assess the actual real world current demand as 10A + 30% of the remainder. So 10 + 55 x 0.3 = 26.5A

Look at the trip response of a 32A MCB:

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if you flip all the knobs round to "full" on the oven and hob, and manage to draw 65A, the MCB is not going to trip on its magnetic response (you need north of 96A for that, and possibly as much as 160A). The thermal part of the trip will tolerate that load for at least couple of minuets. By which time the stats on the rings will already be reducing the demand dramatically.

The point I am trying to make is not that you can't overload a circuit and cause it to trip - obviously you can if you try hard enough, or design it badly enough. However what matters is the sustained average load, and for many domestic appliances this is often significantly less than the peak load. Circuits will also safely supply power at well over their nominal maximum for short durations. So a 32A circuit may supply a constant average load of 30A, but that may represent a peak load of significantly more if you go round adding up the numbers on each appliances spec plate.

Reply to
John Rumm
8<

The cheapest one I have seen is about £300 before fitting (you did notice that it was an induction ring?).

Reply to
dennis

I can't see someone wanting an induction hob being satisfied with a pile of free standing ones. Still, nothing to stop you provisioning a circuit appropriate for four of them if that is what takes your fancy.

Reply to
John Rumm

I bought one, then discovered the pans were non-magnetic so it was useless without new pans. I bought a £1.99 wok from asda and that worked really well.. until I tried full power and it got so hot in a couple of seconds the oil caught fire.

I decided I wanted gas, its just better than electric for hobs.

Reply to
dennis

ROFLMAO

So you are calling the pans useless when it is in fact that it is you that is useless.

You are Frank Spencer AICMFP.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Could they not have turned off the main switch?

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

Pitiful, isn't it?

Reply to
Huge

They could but they should not have to.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

I suppose you can pick up a stainless steel pan with a cored bottom and know if it works on an induction hob from sight? And they predated induction hobs by a decade or two so there are no markings on them to indicate what they work on unlike newer pans. I chose the easy way, try them, how would you do it?

Reply to
dennis

Induction hobs are described in Rankin Kennedy's 1909 'Electrical Installations' book

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Reply to
Andy Dingley

They might be but how many have you seen prior to 1980? That's how old the pans are.

Reply to
dennis

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